Stabilized Wood?

K&G is affordable. I looked at doing my own stabilizing and it would take somewhere around 100 blocks of wood before the equipment started paying for itself. That's a whole lot of time spent trying to save a couple of dollars. I think the last batch that was sent in averaged $3 and some change per block.
 
Ty Adams said:
K&G is affordable. I looked at doing my own stabilizing and it would take somewhere around 100 blocks of wood before the equipment started paying for itself. That's a whole lot of time spent trying to save a couple of dollars. I think the last batch that was sent in averaged $3 and some change per block.
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...even their wood seems reasonable. That is what I will try next....
 
Question....are the naturally harder/denser wood more difficult to stabilize? I would think so....

So my inability to hit 300lbs pressure in stabilizing would mean a poor job on super hard wood and perhaps more acceptable on punky/soft wood?

What say ye? Are there SOME woods where a home system would suffice? I did some birch (not super hard) and got good penetration.(after experimentation) I'll bet I could do a pine or redwood or cedar, etc?

But prolly not the curly maple I love oh so much...lol?

Apologies if this has already been discussed...don't have much time for re-reading today and just thought of this.

And...how many of you home guys test each piece before making a scale out of it?
 
Smallshop said:
And...how many of you home guys test each piece before making a scale out of it?
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I test most all the wood I get, even some from K&G. slice a small section off to be sure the resin is 100% penetrated and drop in a pan of water - stuff should sink. If it doesn't sink, I'm concerned. Doesn't matter if it's my home stabilized Cactus Juice or K&G - if that stuff doesn't sink in water, I check VERY close to be sure it's got full penetration.
 
KenH said:
I test most all the wood I get, even some from K&G. slice a small section off to be sure the resin is 100% penetrated and drop in a pan of water - stuff should sink. If it doesn't sink, I'm concerned. Doesn't matter if it's my home stabilized Cactus Juice or K&G - if that stuff doesn't sink in water, I check VERY close to be sure it's got full penetration.
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Excellent! How good are your %...
 
How good are my %? You're asking what percentage of the wood I stabilize will achieve 100% penetration? Of the wood I feel confident about stabilizing (open pore type woods) I think they all pass the tests, sink in water, etc. I sometimes try woods I'm not sure of like American Black Walnut and it doesn't do as good. I plan to try some walnut again to see how it works if I leave in vacuum for perhaps 6 yrs, then leave in resin soaking for a week and see how well it penetrates then.

K&G can stabilize walnut with 100% penetration - they got the equip to do it. My vacuum chamber only works on open pore type stuff. I guess it'd do a corn cob just fine?
 
KenH said:
How good are my %? You're asking what percentage of the wood I stabilize will achieve 100% penetration? Of the wood I feel confident about stabilizing (open pore type woods) I think they all pass the tests, sink in water, etc. I sometimes try woods I'm not sure of like American Black Walnut and it doesn't do as good. I plan to try some walnut again to see how it works if I leave in vacuum for perhaps 6 yrs, then leave in resin soaking for a week and see how well it penetrates then.

K&G can stabilize walnut with 100% penetration - they got the equip to do it. My vacuum chamber only works on open pore type stuff. I guess it'd do a corn cob just fine?
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That's what I have found...I can do soft woods...and probably corn cob, pine cone, dead bugs(yes I think a wasp handle might be cool...lol) etc. The hard woods probably best left to the Pros.

I just got a can of bowling alley wax and am going to test on some of my stabilized birch. goal: Not having to do multiple top coats. Sand to finish and wax the stabilized wood...and done. The stuff I've been able to stabilize can actually be buffed to finish...i just think a nice wax coat might be a bit better? Have you played around with a quick finish like this?
 
Ted, some handles I've just sanded to a high finish (2,000 grit?), then touched on loose buffing wheel, then wax. Other handles I'll use a tru-oil finish. I tend to like Tru-Oil because it seems to bring out the depth 'n grain a bit better. Not any higher shine, just depth of finish.

As much confidence as I have in Cactus Juice home stabilizing when done right, if I had 10 or 20 lb of wood that needed stabilizing at one time, I'd send to K&G for sure.
 
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