Tanto Grind Process

theWeatherman

theWeatherman

Well-Known Member
So I was wondering what you guys do for the tanto nose/tip grind. I have a knife design that has a swedge with a tanto nose/tip and then the main bevel.

Should I grind the nose/tip and then the swedge and then the flat? Or should I grind the swedge, nose, and then the flat? I ask because I just want everything to come out even and crisp.

For my knives that don't have a tanto I do the swedge and then the flats and that seems to have everything line up and be crisp.
 
Gee, I hope I don't have to do different than now. I just completed a folder with a tanto type blade for one of my grand sons. I did the flats, the swedge and then the nose. The thing is this is the first tanto I`ve made. On the other hand, I`ve done many folder blades with swedges and they are done after the flats or more often hollows are ground. This way is comfortable for me. Your way is the right way if that`s what works for you. Frank
 
For my blades in general I usually do the grinds that remove the most stock first. No real reason I suppose - just the way I do it, perhaps the smaller grinds might have smaller cleanup and smaller alignment issues. For my tanto style I do the main edge, then the nose. If I was to put a swedge on one I would do it last.
 
rhinoknives said:
I just grind the flats and then the tip, Swedge's come last for me.

I really don't think the order is set in stone, What works for you?

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
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I didn't know if it really mattered. I spoke with a maker a while back and I can't remember who it was but I was talking about clips/swedges with him. He said that do the swedge first and then the main bevel for two reasons.

the first being that when you do the swedge first you have more material to keep your knife flat, (at least when you are doing a full flat like I was), and the second being that when you do the swedge first and then the full flat it comes out crisp and strait in the end.

I tried it that way and have been doing it ever since because it comes out more even for me when I did it before the full flat.

I think I am going to try, nose and the swedge, and then swedge and then nose just to see if there is any big difference in the final outcome and easiness for me.
 
And there's a good thing to do before getting set doing it one way like me. I won't change now, well probably, and am not likely to try other ways since first the main grinds and then the swedge works so well for me and I hope it stays that way. Frank
 
theWeatherman said:
I didn't know if it really mattered. I spoke with a maker a while back and I can't remember who it was but I was talking about clips/swedges with him. He said that do the swedge first and then the main bevel for two reasons.

the first being that when you do the swedge first you have more material to keep your knife flat, (at least when you are doing a full flat like I was), and the second being that when you do the swedge first and then the full flat it comes out crisp and strait in the end.

I tried it that way and have been doing it ever since because it comes out more even for me when I did it before the full flat.

I think I am going to try, nose and the swedge, and then swedge and then nose just to see if there is any big difference in the final outcome and easiness for me.
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That's a good idea! You can find which order works best for you?

Also I do all of my flats, bevels and swedge's after HT ment.
This gives me a crisper grind & avoids warping problems.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
theWeatherman said:
Laurence, I would grind afterwards but Im working on .25" thick so I figure I would just pre grind.
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What ever works? I have cut all of my warping problems to zero by profiling, Drilling,and relieving the edge where I will grind my bevels, Then Heat Treatment and then grinding all of the bevels, flats, swedges etc. Its a bit harder on the belts, but I get nice crisp grinds and no rejects from warping or spending time having to straighten warped blades.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
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