The best carbon steel for the kitchen??

D

Diamond G Knives

Well-Known Member
Ive got a batch of chefs knives to make, since Ive been away from knifemaking for a while, I thought Id ask you folks opinions on what your choice for a HC steel would be for a kitchen knife, and why.

And another question, I understand in the 10 series steels, the higher the last 2 numbers the higher the carbon content. (am I correct?)

If this is so, what are the advantages of the lower number steels? Disadvantages?

Would 1075 have a trait better suited for a certin style of knife than say 1084?

Thanks and God Bless
Mike
 
I have several Cru-Forge V kitchen knives I've made. It's an option to look at.

However, for the non-stainless kitchen knives I've done, the #1 cause of edge degradation is corrosion, by a couple of orders of magnitude. In other words the extra vanadium in Cru-Forge to improve wear resistance or the extra carbon in 1095 to improve hardness are irrelevant in the face of Evil Children who cut fruit and then don't wipe the blade.
 
Best carbon steel for kitchen is highly debatable because blade geometry makes a huge difference but IMO the 10XX series are good for beaters eg KaBars/RAT but not as popular for kitchen use. The trend seems to be towards Jap style knives with thin blades and 62+RC and for this Hitachi blue steel is very highly rated - I have yet to try it.

I currently use an 8" Roselli "Astrid" chef in his proprietary UHC (~2%C, 64+RC, 1.5mm spine tapering to .7mm at the tip) and this steel really performs - haven't managed to chip or roll the edge yet even when boning, and I keep the edge fine enough to shave the type off paper without cutting through the page

Corrosion Control
I force a phosphoric acid patina on all my carbon steel kitchen knives and keep the cutting edge polished to prevent corrosion.

Availability
Not sure if Hitachi blue steel is readily available to USA makers. I don't believe Roselli sells his UHC because the formulation and heat treatment are proprietary, but he also uses Krupps W75 with very good results but this isn't really comparable to his UHC.
 
This is a good question and funny it just came up I had some round 52100 that I was wanting to try so I figured i would make a kitchen knife and let the family beat it up in the kitchen . The edge has held up quite well so far but veggies and high acid stuff is not very kind to the blade. I do think it needs some kind of finish to help prevent the stain/discolor problem.....Steve
 
I know some people who swear by A2, D2, 1095, etc for their kitchen knives - just like the "what's the best steel" question you'll get as many answers as there are opinions. I know you're looking for answers with opinions so you can see which sounds best to you.

With that said, I like 1095 for kitchen knives (never made one myself) and love the patina they develop. Now, I've never used a 1084 kitchen knife but I have used plenty of stainless and prefer carbon steel.

Keep them clean and sharp and they'll last for generations.
 
I use a 1095 santouk with a 7" blade that I made with canvas micarta scales held on by aluminum corbys. It has gotten a patina, but has had no rust. Wash and dry afer each use and it will be fine. Nathan (silver pilate) heat treated it for me and it holds a great edge. It is 1/16" with a flat grind to thin it out and a convex finished edge. 1095 is great if you just take care of it and it doesn't take much, just wash and dry. To keep rust potential down finish to a higher grit, 800 minimum.
 
Steve Randall said:
I do think it needs some kind of finish to help prevent the stain/discolor problem.....Steve
Click to expand...

If you like your knives to stay shiny then stick to stainless.

That "discolouration" is a patina - not a problem. You want kitchen knives (wet area use) to develop this as it forms a protective coat to prevent rust. Phosphoric acid (rust converter) makes a better protective patina than food acids (acetic; citric; sulphenic; malic). A honed and polished edge will also resist rust better.

To maintain, get into the habit of wiping and drying the knife as soon as you finish using it - even between jobs. Lightly coat with food grade mineral oil (the Brits call it Paraffin B.P.) before storage.
 
In my opinion I would look into VG-10 or D2. I hear vg10 really takes an edge and holds it and it was actually designed by Takefu Special Steel co just for kitchen knives. And it's proven itself well enough to be used by Spyderco as well.
As far as D2 goes I have heard nothing but great things and out of the high-carbon tool steels it has the highest amount of chromium, 11%, but not quite stainless. Or you could just do a laminated blade, high-carbon core with a stainless jacket.
 
I am going to make some kitchen knives out of D2 as Christmas presents. I made some tactical style knives out of it this weekend. Taking them to heat treater in the morning. The steel seems to be very light and agile.
 
I have a couple of old carbon steel chef's knives that were made by Sabatier. I love to use them, but if I let them sit for a while the edge degrades.

This is not really a problem for me, but if I made and sold carbon steel chef's knives, I would have to be absolutly positive that the customers knew and understood the ins and outs of carbon steel in the kitchen. It would be easy to have dissatisfied customers.
 
Thanks for all the reply's!

I have orders for several, some stainless, some carbon. Im purchasing steel, and as Ive said Ive been away for several years (work sure gets in the way!) so I wanted to see what the current opinion is.

I have found some thin sheet 52100 so I am defiantly going to be trying that for the carbon blades, and have decided to go with 440 C for the stainless until I can experiment with the other "new" stainless steels out there. As for damascus, Im staying with 1084 and 15N20 mix as its what I am use to working.

I always talk to my customers and make sure they are aware of the care requirements for carbon blades, and what to expect. Most who want a carbon blade are cooking for a living and know what they want and whats required.

I cant say thank you enough for all your reply's, and for the folks that make this forum available!

God Bless
Mike
 
Here are 2 vg 10 knives I did for my wife for xmas .They are by far the sharpest knife ive ever sharpened . Im sure she will cut herself .Im just going to go get some walnut to make a knifeblock and then im done the handle is suriname snakewood
HPIM1831.jpg
 
Mike, I've found that 1080+(sawblade w2/% Ni) works pretty good for a non-SS steel on kitchen knives. It will patina to a dark blue and is easy to work and HT.
Chuck Bybee was selling it also. bruce
btw, I still have a billet of pw stuff you sent me a bunch of yrs ago. Haven't ever mad e aknife from it. It's still pretty tho :)
 
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