The Laser Thread

I finally have my Ortur Laser up and running. A couple of questions. First, those of you that have an Ortur what settings are you using for marking your logo on stainless? I've been successful making my mark, but it is brown in color not a nice dark black. Just more passes?
Secondly, Ortur just lists settings for stainless steel. Can the same basic settings be used on most carbon steels? Or do I just tinker for what I want?
Thanks
https://imgur.com/JxhvaL7
 
I believe mine is set at 150/min at 100% for four passes. When it is done, it will look brown but you can just wipe the brown away with your finger and it is nice and black underneath. Just make sure you remember to set your laser focal length if you did not spring for the z-axis. It really makes a difference.
 
Last edited:
Chris Railey said:
I believe mine is set at 150/sec at 100% for four passes. When it is done, it will look brown but you can just wipe the brown away with your finger and it is nice and black underneath. Just make sure you remember to set your laser focal length if you did not spring for the z-axis. It really makes a difference.
Click to expand...
Thanks Chris. I will give that a try
 
I've got my Ortur laser set at 200mm/min and sometimes even at 100mm/min and do use 100% with 1 pass. I have used 500mm/min with 4 passes.

Something I've found for a "blacker" mark is to paint the SS with black spray paint and burn thru that. It almost seems like it "burns" the paint into the etch, not sitting on top of metal to wear off.
 
KenH said:
I've got my Ortur laser set at 200mm/min and sometimes even at 100mm/min and do use 100% with 1 pass. I have used 500mm/min with 4 passes.

Something I've found for a "blacker" mark is to paint the SS with black spray paint and burn thru that. It almost seems like it "burns" the paint into the etch, not sitting on top of metal to wear off.
Click to expand...
I like that idea. I have some hi-temp black I could try.
 
With the price of Cer-Mark at $25 for 2 oz on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NRFX6RB

I'll stay with spray on black paint - "IF" I need darker etches. The OLM3 does a pretty good job on bare metal without any paint. I just used the paint playing around and found a decent black image could be had at higher speeds.
 
KenH said:
Why? with laser harden steel etches just fine, and I'm not all all sure I've tried electro etching HC before quenching
Click to expand...
I was responding to the thread about getting the etching dark, thus the reply. Nothing to do with hardness.
 
Looks good Chris. We do enjoy our lasers don't we? Even my wife enjoys my laser due to putting her name on some of her drinking mugs
 
Ok. Looks like I’m in for a laser.
My personalizer plus blew a fuse while I was using it and subsequent replacement fuses blow. Of course it’s past the 90 day warranty period.
 
opaul said:
Ok. Looks like I’m in for a laser.
My personalizer plus blew a fuse while I was using it and subsequent replacement fuses blow. Of course it’s past the 90 day warranty period.
Click to expand...
That's what kept happening with my etcher. I tried replacing several parts twice and finally it lost its smoke. So same reason. There's a bit of a learning curve. But not too much.
 
Should have went with one when you guys got yours. So, with that said what model should I get. My budget is $5,000.



Oops I mean $500
 
I bought the Ortur LM2 because it was on sale. So far I've been fairly happy with it. Though I couldn't get it to work with LaserGRBL. Which is the free software. Instead I've gone with Lightburn which is $60.00 and then I think $30.00 per year after that.
For $500 you can get almost any current Ortur. There are other manufacturers out there. But I must admit I didn't do a lot of comparison shopping. However Ortur seems to be the most popular machine on here and elsewhere.

Full disclosure: I am now an Ortur affiliate. The link below will take you to the Ortur website and I will get credit for the sale. I also have a coupon. Use the coupon code KnifeDogs at checkout for $10.00 off any purchase.


Ortur

************edited to add***********
@BossDog I hope this is OK. If not, let me know
 
Second on LightBurn. For complex stuff I design on Q-CAD then import into LB. That is mainly because I already know how to design in Q-Cad.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top