The Little Guy

Shane Wink

Shane Wink

Well-Known Member
The whole scandi grind has been kicking my butt however I did pull one off without the need for too much work to flatten on the stones. I have never used one before nor even held one so I did a good bit of research to have an idea on how to build something I have only seen in magazines or online.

The bevel is 30* inclusive and after cutting trap triggers, shaving fuzz sticks and a large pile of wood shavings for a fire, batoning through some post oak and finally slicing up steak and onions in the kitchen there was zero edge damage not at anytime did I sharpen the blade though out the testing.At the start of the test the blade slices paper with not effort and at the end it still shaved both hair and paper but did have a noticeable amount of drag to the cut. A few strophs later and it was back to popping hair. Honestly I have not given theses blades the credit they deserve.

This blade is destined to be used to destruction so nothing fancy handle wise but I have grown to like the carbonized bamboo very much and there will be more in the stable soon.

specs:
1/8 1095
3.75" blade
4.5" handle
Carbonized Bamboo with .020 G10 linners

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Before today I would have said the same thing, but what I found was that when batoning the edge only came in contact with the wood when it is first hammered in. After that the wedge shape of the flats keep the wood split apart. I chopped a few small (1/2" limbs) limbs off and it never did roll or chip. I did not cut the big onion that well but that was to be expected as the same thing that helped it with the batoning hurt it when trying to cut the onion in half. It did slice the halves just fine however.
 
You did good. Now if these headaches I've been having let up a bit more I might be able to complete mine. They are a lot of work.

Doug
 
Shane Wink said:
Before today I would have said the same thing, but what I found was that when batoning the edge only came in contact with the wood when it is first hammered in. After that the wedge shape of the flats keep the wood split apart. I chopped a few small (1/2" limbs) limbs off and it never did roll or chip. I did not cut the big onion that well but that was to be expected as the same thing that helped it with the batoning hurt it when trying to cut the onion in half. It did slice the halves just fine however.
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Shane,
You can't expect one thickness to do all chores. The onion and other culinary chores can be cut well by 1/8" steel if its a vee grind to the top of 1" or taller. Scandi grind's are usually best suited to meat, hide and the wood work you were doing. You might do better with 3/32" stock on the Onion, but I don't think that would hold up as well on the wood work.
Looks like a great blade so far! Keep experimenting.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
I'm impressed.
Admittedly, I have never been a fan of the scandi grind. But I must admit that my bias is purely baseless. I've never even held a scandi knife, so I dont know why I dont care for them. This post may have changed my mind, and I may attempt to make one now and see what happens.
You have done a wonderful job of producing a nice looking knife, and obviously put it through its paces. My hat is off to you! (that's a big deal considering how cold it is here)
 
Thanks guys

Doug I hope you do get to feeling better and looking forward to seeing yours.

Laurence You are right about the thinner stock but it was just a test for the common sizes used since I have never held or used one before. Until then I had just like Eric been bias purely on the visual and not from any real experience. Well Whats the point of making knives if I cant make anything that I want so thats just what i did. 1/8 and 5/32 are the two most common thickness used with many preferring the 5/32. I will make one in 5/32 but after the results from yesterday I am not sure its needed.

Way to go Eric! Thats right man I salute you on being honest and being open minded enough to try. I think you will be surprised. I will be looking forward to seeing what you come up with. - shane
 
You did a wonderful job on this one Shane! The scandi is on my list also. They make great camp knives.

I like how clean that bamboo looks also.

Thanks for posting and showing us your test results.
 
Thanks Steve you will be seeing a lot more of the bamboo. Just ordered some 7/64 thick O1 and looking forward to running it through the paces. The 1/8 has proven to be much tougher than I ever thought it would be. Goind slightly thinner will help with slicing.

I chopped a 2by4 through today. Still shaves hair and no damage to the edge however the thin handle has got to be changed to something fatter and roundish.
 
May I ask why the handle needs to be changed? I ask because you always see knives with scandi grinds or bushcraft knives with big fat handles.

My guess would be when chopping or doing heavy wood work, the slim handles would create hot spots in your hand and you would ultimately have a better grip with a handle filling up your hand and being more round? I have a lot to learn on the design aspects of knifemaking and knife use.

Thanks Shane!
 
Jason,
It looks like Bamboo flooring board to me? Price would be the difference here. I have a bunch of natural white bamboo flooring. If you pay for shipping I'll send you a few feet. Or just find someone that does flooring and ask for some scraps.

I did that and ended up with two full boxes of the stuff.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
Laurence, if you can fill up a small flat rate box, I'd be glad to take some off your hands. It would be cheaper than using my wife's cutting board :what!:
 
Steven Long said:
May I ask why the handle needs to be changed? I ask because you always see knives with scandi grinds or bushcraft knives with big fat handles.

My guess would be when chopping or doing heavy wood work, the slim handles would create hot spots in your hand and you would ultimately have a better grip with a handle filling up your hand and being more round? I have a lot to learn on the design aspects of knifemaking and knife use.

Thanks Shane!
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Steve a Fuller more rounded handle lends itself to being less tiring on the hand and allows it to be gripped in most positions while carving.

Jason it is a highend flooring from higura. Cheaper flooring may hold up but I would be Leary. The reason I say that is because when I was designing and building high performance hybrid longbows the limb cores were made from the floor from higura. Unlike most boo flooring they use a vertical compression and glue to bind the strands whereas the cheaper flooring that uses vertical compression also us steam to bind the fibers. The latter is not suitable for limb cores so I don't use it. I have seen cheaper boo handles separate over time but never any from higura. I can give you a board 4*36*1/2
 
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