Lil wood glue wouldn't hurt either....Thanks Guys! I haven't done any mortise work at all, everything is just "straight" cut right now. I might just combine both ideas...... hardwood dowels, and then a screw too! Guess I'll be making a Home Depot run this morning to gather things I need.
Another issue that I THINK I have figured out is the screen..... I think I'm gona copy another "screen" door we have.... the screen is held in with what I call rubber "piping"...... a slot with a round rubber "gasket" with the screen pressed in...... my thought is to run a shallow saw kerf, about 1/2" from the inside edges, all the way around...... and then use fiberglass screen.
I just realized...... I got myself into another project that's gona take a lot more time then I thought about....... story of my life.![]()
that would take some serious talentI would rather slam my pinky toe in a sliding glass door than paint...
Watching my Dad woodwork when I was a kid, when he was setting screws in hard wood he would wet the screw with a cheap liquid hand soap to lube it. It made quite the difference and is a cheap optionGot it all together! I went with dowels and counterbored 4" deck screws. Oak can be so time consuming to assemble.... every single hole must be drilled, both pilot and counterbore, then hope you don't twist a screw off when tightening....... but I got it!
Had to do a bit of research for what to finish it with..... was going to go with an oil finish, but since even in the best conditions, that needs redone every year in Montana..... I thought I'd consult the "experts" at a couple of our local paint stores. When I told them I wanted a clear/flat finish for Red Oak..... they looked at me like a deer in the headlights....so I turned to trusty google. Ended up buying a clear wood finish from Behr...... which carries a 4 year guarantee on vertical surfaces. Did some scrap testing, and really liked it, so side 1 of the door is not drying. I'll get more pics later.....but now it's "watching paint dry time"![]()