This weeks work

Two questions Gruff. I will be making my first leather sheath soon. Do you stain in The beginning or when it’s finished? Also , you mentioned you drilled the holes. Is that easier than the 4 prong punch? Or reasons why I would use one method over the other?

When I make sheaths, I drill as opposed to trying to use pricking irons. By the time you stack all the layers, including the welt, a pricking iron/punch would not go all the way through. I do use a pricking iron or rotary wheel to mark the holes for drilling.

I always stain before I stitch as well. Of course edge coating is done after the fact.

Edit: I know I'm not Gruff but I have done a fair bit of leatherwork over the last few years :D
 
When I make sheaths, I drill as opposed to trying to use pricking irons. By the time you stack all the layers, including the welt, a pricking iron/punch would not go all the way through. I do use a pricking iron or rotary wheel to mark the holes for drilling.

I always stain before I stitch as well. Of course edge coating is done after the fact.

Edit: I know I'm not Gruff but I have done a fair bit of leatherwork over the last few years :D
I appreciate the answer. I didn’t think about the layers so I will do the drilling also. I just ordered a few leather tools and have a nice heavy weight piece to start. I think I am becoming a thread hyjacker. Sorry Gruff. I am a sponge right now.
 
Two questions Gruff. I will be making my first leather sheath soon. Do you stain in The beginning or when it’s finished? Also , you mentioned you drilled the holes. Is that easier than the 4 prong punch? Or reasons why I would use one method over the other?
I buy undyed leather and dye after cutting the pattern. Have had a few instances where I got a mark on the leather (thumb print with glue etc) and the dye will not penetrate through the stain.
The 4 pronged fork is fine for straight lines but there are curves on my sheaths so the drill is a better option. Not a drill bit as such but a simple sharpened stem
 
I buy undyed leather and dye after cutting the pattern. Have had a few instances where I got a mark on the leather (thumb print with glue etc) and the dye will not penetrate through the stain.
The 4 pronged fork is fine for straight lines but there are curves on my sheaths so the drill is a better option. Not a drill bit as such but a simple sharpened stem

Oh that's interesting, not a bit. I am assuming a bit would tear up a little more than a sharp stem. Thank you Gruff.
 
A finished and ready to ship

The Daggers are 1095 with walnut on brass with one having read and back and the other blue and black spacers

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An EDC with 1084 and buffalo horn furniture

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a skinner in 1084 with self made black and orange micarta. The orange canvas became red when the epoxy was added.

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Light hunter in 1084 with simple accacia woodware.

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A mini skinner in 1084 with buffalo horn and eucalyptus root

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This group is for a wedding as gifts to the groomsmen and bridesmaids. The 2 5 1/2 inch chefs are 12C27 and one has rimu with the other having acccia with the two boners in 1084 being handled with rimu.

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I received my leather kit and it comes with the rolling spacing tool. Are they standard sizes. It is about 1/8 inch apart. Is that about what you do.
 
I received my leather kit and it comes with the rolling spacing tool. Are they standard sizes. It is about 1/8 inch apart. Is that about what you do.
There are different spacing wheels and the one I use prints 5 stitches to the inch
 
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