Wakizashi question
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bubba-san
Well-Known Member
Keeping them straight is an age old question . even grinding, or forging . Lots of stress relief ie: normalise several times . I would not use 1084 for a Hamon ... Use some W-1 W-2 1075, 1095 .The 10xx series , with medium or low manganese will do . Application of clay must be even and pretty close on both sides of blade . On shorter blades its not so critical but, the longer the blade the more critical all these things are . Even heating is critical , I do my HT in the evening or morning when its fairly dark , this is done to see any unheated or uneven heated portions of blade .
Do not overheat !!!! 1450- 1475 f is a good quench temp for those steels. As my experience has been . Good luck Bubba
Do not overheat !!!! 1450- 1475 f is a good quench temp for those steels. As my experience has been . Good luck Bubba
A swordsmith once told me, if I wanted to make swords I would need to learn how to straighten warps. In other words, expect warp, and know how to fix it.
You can get a hamon on 1084/1086, but not anywhere near as much activity as you could get with a more shallow hardening steel.
You can get a hamon on 1084/1086, but not anywhere near as much activity as you could get with a more shallow hardening steel.
bubba-san
Well-Known Member
The way I find the most productive is : try and keep the same amount of hammer blows on each side , Constantly eyeball the sword by looking down the spine , That way you know where to hit to keep straight. In the Old Japanese tradition, there were 2 smiths and a master
He would point at blade with stick to show smiths where to hit blade . The Key to keeping them straight is , normalise frequently to relieve stress, Try and forge sword with same amount of hammer blows per side , I know its not possible to do this but, as close as you can get sure helps keep them straight. Forge blade as straight as you can and remember different types of quenching mediums make swords do funny things . If sword warps during quench , you can straighten with wooden mallet if done immediatly . When sword is finished , to check for even forging , Just lay sword on flat surface and look for warping . good luck ............... Bubba
If you are doing stock removal just keep it normalised and grind it evenly on both sides as much as possible . Make sure blade is evenly heated . No dark areas on blade.
He would point at blade with stick to show smiths where to hit blade . The Key to keeping them straight is , normalise frequently to relieve stress, Try and forge sword with same amount of hammer blows per side , I know its not possible to do this but, as close as you can get sure helps keep them straight. Forge blade as straight as you can and remember different types of quenching mediums make swords do funny things . If sword warps during quench , you can straighten with wooden mallet if done immediatly . When sword is finished , to check for even forging , Just lay sword on flat surface and look for warping . good luck ............... Bubba
If you are doing stock removal just keep it normalised and grind it evenly on both sides as much as possible . Make sure blade is evenly heated . No dark areas on blade.
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Shane Wink
Well-Known Member
I am making a waki with a 20" blade now using stock removal. I was amazed at how often I had to straighten the blade even with good technique and even grinds while keeping the grind cool. A good video if you dont have it is Wally Haye's katana video. It can be purchased on paladin press. In the video he shows how to make a stock removal interpretation of a katana but more to the point he shows a little wooden device he made to take the memory out of the blade as he is grinding it. Its similar to using the 3 metal dowels in the vice that Wayne Goddard mentions in one of his books.