What's going on in your shop?

Working on an anvil stand for a round anvil someone gave me. I think it's a pin from some heavy equipment. It itself is a beast! Whatever it is, it's one solid chunk of steel!

It seems like it has to be tool steel, but it's dinged up on both sides, so not sure how it'll go when I start using it.

View attachment 83986.
Kind of a challenge building a stand for something round. The pin will set in there about 5" and the top will have a homemade flange that'll help hold the wood together and the pin.

I might make the flange out of the railroad plate laying on the table in the corner of the picture. I have thinner stuff I can wrap around the top corners, too, so not sure yet. Maybe both, now that I think about it.

The top hole might work for some type of tooling, probably not much though.
Looking forward to seeing this build v
Spent the majority of my 2 days off doing some heat treating! Did 3 52100 blades; 2 of my basic 4" drop point and one that will be an upswept blade like a Marbles Woodcraft for a 40th RMEF dinner prize. Used 5/32" 52100 stock. HT recipe was the Knifesteelnerds from Larrin; 1700 30 min, air cool normalize. 1460 for 30 min, air cool. 1460 for 30, slow cool to 1260, then air cool. 1525 austentizing for 15 min, quenched in 110 degree AAA. Results were 66 HRC out of the quench and did 3 cycles of tempering at 350 degrees 1 hr each for 62 HRC after tempering. I wrapped these in 321 foil for the normalizing, and 2 1460 cycles, then used ATP 641 for the austentizing; first time using either!
52100 x3 62 hrc.jpg

Is 62 HRC a bit high for a hunting knife in 52100? I am considering bring it down to 60-61 for better toughness, but I wanted to check with those here first. I don't mind that hardness for a kitchen knife that will see less lateral stresses, but wasn't sure for hunters.

Next up is 4 80CRV2 kitchen knife blanks. 1/8" thick stock about 2.5" wide at the widest, these will be trimmed down to 225mm-250mm gyuto (maybe one 270 in there) and rough profiled before starting to grind. 1650 Normalizing then air cool, 1400 for 30 min, slow cool to 1200 and then air cool. 1525 Aus for 10 min, quenched in 110-125 degree AAA. I did the same tempers as the 52100 (350 for 2 hours because they were done before the 52100 blades, and then 2, 1 hr cycles at 350). I tested a few out of tempering and got between 61 and 62 for them (no clean up after HT) and other were hitting like 67/68 HRC. I used the 321 foil for the 1650 and 1400 steps and ATP641 for the austentizing/quench. I tested w/o cleaning up the steel, but I am guessing the 67/68 were hitting hard spots or scale or something? I am going to grind to get into clean scale and test again hopefully Sunday afternoon.

The 80CRv2 blades were all bowed/warped significantly when I unpacked them from the foil, so I made a 3 point straightening jig to straighten them out before heat treating and then clamped them between pieces of angle iron in the vise after quenching. They have some minor bowing, but the carbide hammer will take care of that!
80crv2 gyuto blank x4.jpg

Worked on these guys! Got the FBBO finished up; 2.75" 80CRV2 blade, OD Green Canvas Micarta handles, black pins and lanyard tube and Kryptek Kydex sheath. The other one is my EDC 3 model with a 3 1/16" cutting edge 80CRV2 blade that is 3.5" tip to handle, with G10 camo handles, white g10 pins, black lanyard tube and Kyrptek Kydex sheath. Handle scales on both are fairly slim and I am playing with different contouring to see how they feel in the hand.

EDC 2 Camo.jpg
EDC 1 Camo.jpgFBBO2.jpgFBBO1.jpgEDC and FBBO.jpg
Nice - any idea what wood those tobacco sticks are? Sorta looks like it's got a brownish stain from all the years of hanging tobacco leaves.
I believe these are heart pine. Most likely it varies on location but for this region in NC - old growth pine.
Pine is what I was thinking it looked like - heart pine is long lived! No bugs, no rot - almost forever.