What's going on in your shop?

Bjmac said:
just finished this. It's a prototype kitchen utility knife. 1084 with birds eye maple handle. handle has 9 coats of tru oil to seal itView attachment 69553View attachment 69555
Click to expand...
Very nice Bjmac. I made one with a similar shape a little while back for a lady to test out for me. It was my first kitchen type knife and I wanted some feedback on it. She says she uses it all the time and loves it. I need to make some more.

69574
 
luciusx5 said:
Very nice Bjmac. I made one with a similar shape a little while back for a lady to test out for me. It was my first kitchen type knife and I wanted some feedback on it. She says she uses it all the time and loves it. I need to make some more.

View attachment 69574
Click to expand...
That does look familiar ! My wife (and chief tester and commentator ) hung it on the knife rack...she's adverse to using it because "it's too pretty ." Sheesh , hard to get feedback that way.
 
just epoxied up 13 knives...only one(out of focus at the back) has inlay. These are my simple EDCs...just single colored handles with liners. One thing I've been meaning to share is I groove both the pins and lanyard tube to make a recess that allows the epoxy to lock in the grooves. This can be done in a drill motor at the belt grinder or on a small lathe if you have one. I also went to weaker clamps (shown) and the gluing seems stronger. I feel C-clamps or super strong spring clamps ten to make the bond too thin on the epoxy. I think I have been over clamping in the past.IMG_1926.jpg
 
Smallshop said:
just epoxied up 13 knives...only one(out of focus at the back) has inlay. These are my simple EDCs...just single colored handles with liners. One thing I've been meaning to share is I groove both the pins and lanyard tube to make a recess that allows the epoxy to lock in the grooves. This can be done in a drill motor at the belt grinder or on a small lathe if you have one. I also went to weaker clamps (shown) and the gluing seems stronger. I feel C-clamps or super strong spring clamps ten to make the bond too thin on the epoxy. I think I have been over clamping in the past.View attachment 69586
Click to expand...
Do you drill any extra holes in your tangs for epoxy to pass through? When I first started I was worried that I might over clamp the scales. Read numerous posts warning about that. Then I had to remove my first handle due to a mistake. Had to almost melt the scales off before it would turn lose. All the extra holes were filled with epoxy and acted as internal pins. I don’t worry about it much anymore after that experience. :) Lot of very nice knives you have there. Looking good!!
 
I shaped the handles on my second and third knife yesterday evening. I have some touch up work to do but I am very happy with them. These are nothing as good as the knives most of you guys make but I think I am more proud of these than I am of my kids (knives don't need college tuition either.) 7 more knives and I am buying a new grinder. I am most likely going Ameribrade. Any bad reviews on them anyone has heard?
IMG_1125[1].JPGIMG_1124[1].JPGWBIM9307[1].JPG
 
luciusx5 said:
Do you drill any extra holes in your tangs for epoxy to pass through? When I first started I was worried that I might over clamp the scales. Read numerous posts warning about that. Then I had to remove my first handle due to a mistake. Had to almost melt the scales off before it would turn lose. All the extra holes were filled with epoxy and acted as internal pins. I don’t worry about it much anymore after that experience. :) Lot of very nice knives you have there. Looking good!!
Click to expand...



Here's from the webpage I am trying to publish tomorrow..lol. (I think I said that 1 1/2 weeks ago...sigh...)

"We use the Hauser-Interlock™ method of attaching handles to blades. This is done by cutting "windows" in the steel and making interlocking lugs on the handle pieces that allow the handles to fit to each other through the knife blade. This greatly increases the epoxy surface and removes the flat shear plane entirely. "

I prototyped this on my first knife almost 20 years ago...no pins. Told my wife (aka "The knife killer") "You can wash this in the dishwasher.... leave it soaking in the sink...doesn't matter..." And she did for two years. The knife was unstabilized oak handles on O-1 blade. here's a pic I took yesterday of that knife. it split a little at the thin point and at the butt...I don't even want to remember how many times I opened a steamy dishwasher to see it laying in there...lol. I had to refinish it twice...

After two years of rigorous testing I couldn't stand it anymore and snuck it out to the shop....Where it still is today...Lol!

ist knife.jpg
 
Heikki said:
Just finished gluing everything up. Hoping to get several shaped this weekend. I've been using a lot of G10 liners lately, and have some handle combinations that I really want to see how they turn out.

Has anyone here use G10 pin stock? I found a source and was contemplating using some of the colors.

View attachment 69609View attachment 69610View attachment 69611View attachment 69612View attachment 69613
Click to expand...
You better y to work , dude. There's alot to do and I ain't got all day to wait and watch.l
 
Smallshop said:
just epoxied up 13 knives...only one(out of focus at the back) has inlay. These are my simple EDCs...just single colored handles with liners. One thing I've been meaning to share is I groove both the pins and lanyard tube to make a recess that allows the epoxy to lock in the grooves. This can be done in a drill motor at the belt grinder or on a small lathe if you have one. I also went to weaker clamps (shown) and the gluing seems stronger. I feel C-clamps or super strong spring clamps ten to make the bond too thin on the epoxy. I think I have been over clamping in the past.
Click to expand...
I cut aII my pins from Iong Ienghts of pinstock and take them to the grinder to taper one end so it seIf guides through the driIIed hoIes better and at the same time run three grooves round the centre of the pin on the edge of the beIt to aIIow for the epoxy to have good grab points, and aIso countersink the hoIes on the inside of the handIe and the tang to create a dam of epoxy for the grooves in the pin to Iock into.
 
Von Gruff said:
I cut aII my pins from Iong Ienghts of pinstock and take them to the grinder to taper one end so it seIf guides through the driIIed hoIes better and at the same time run three grooves round the centre of the pin on the edge of the beIt to aIIow for the epoxy to have good grab points, and aIso countersink the hoIes on the inside of the handIe and the tang to create a dam of epoxy for the grooves in the pin to Iock into.
Click to expand...
Similar...I make the lanyard hole in the blade and liner about 1/16 oversize to make a nice locking foundation. That chunk of epoxy at the center is essential!
 
Heikki said:
Just finished gluing everything up. Hoping to get several shaped this weekend. I've been using a lot of G10 liners lately, and have some handle combinations that I really want to see how they turn out.

Has anyone here use G10 pin stock? I found a source and was contemplating using some of the colors.

View attachment 69609View attachment 69610View attachment 69611View attachment 69612View attachment 69613
Click to expand...
Yes, I have used G10 and Micarta pins quite a bit. Just like liner and scale material, they seem to bond exceptionally well.
 
Whoops! Looks like putting the PID system within the toaster side compartment was a bad idea.. Too Hot....

Back to the job box all this stuff goes!

SSR is the only thing busted:



Edit: to the concept of integrating the PID system in the compartment's defense... My insulation job was weak.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top