Wood bandsaw blade

D.Douglas

D.Douglas

Well-Known Member
I have a small wood bandsaw from Sears that ive always had trouble cutting my blocks and scales straight. All along i thought the fence was the problem and blamed it on cheaply made. I recently found this you tube video on blade drift.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OY3oKtssZk
I had know idea. That and i bought a new 1/2 inch wood slicer blade from highlandwoodworking.com. Cutting the most beautiful straight lines now. I am very happy with the blade and finding out about drift. Just thought i would pass this along and hopefully help someone
 
Cool! About a year ago I bought this book, Band saw Handbook by Mark Duginske.
You can find it used on ebay or Amazon.
This is a true Band saw Bible, He covers everything from the fix in the video, to how to use drift, to all the different blades and what to use them and much more.
I kept reading and referring to it!

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com/
 
Douglas, the woodslicer blade is the finest wood cutting blade to be had. I went through all of the major brands before finding the WS Blade but the search was worth it. They stay sharp longer, cut cleaner and produce a better product making it easier to finish with less effort.
 
I am very impressed with the Woodslicer blades. They live up to the hype.
I have also had good luck with the Timber Wolf low-tension blades.

For me, the WS provides the better finish, while the TW blade allows a somewhat underpowered saw to do things it "shouldn't be able to do".

Glad to hear you're learning about the bandsaw and proper setup.
Adjusting for drift is important. Every blade will react differently, and even the same blade can perform differently under varying conditions.
This is due to a number of factors including hardness of the material being cut, sharpness of blade, tension on blade.
In addition, the duration and type of cut will impact drift depending on how much the blade heats up. Resawing a 6" wide board can cause a different drift effect than ripping a 1" thick board.
Such differences are usually negligible to small projects such as cutting up scales/handles. Just that it's important to know when you're switching from something soft (like cutting up spalted maple to be sent off for stabilizing) to something hard (processing that hunk of ironwood).
 
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