First time filing jig grind questions

W

Waldors

Active Member
Hola Knifedogs.

First timer here. Glad to say everything was fine up until this point.

I am now grinding my bevel with a home-made filing jig, and feel as if I am doing something wrong.

I have been going at it for quite some time, but have only gotten as far as you can see in this picture:

IMG_0722.jpg

I am about half way to my center line, as marked with a drill bit the same thickness as the steel< from where the top edge of the side was when I started. I am using a 1/4 thick piece of 1075.

As you can see in this picture, I have the jig set at ~10 degrees:

IMG_0729.jpg

I have been going at it for about two hours now. This concerns me because according to this video, in which a similar jig is used, it should take about ~45 minutes to grind down one side.

I think I am messing up. If anyone can point out what I am doing wrong from what I have shared so far, please do.

Any tips on anything else would be appreciated too.

To close, just some more pictures of my set-up that may help y'all figure out if I goofed:

IMG_0721.jpg

IMG_0728.jpg

Gracias.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Gonna take a while to file 1/4 inch bar dude. Keep working at it, towards that center line.

I assume you have good files, and they are cutting fine?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Are you carding your file regularly and cleaning the teeth out? It looks like you are using a long @@@@@@@ cut mill file so that should be good. However, I remember from my days of filing a blade, it takes a while. I didn't come anywhere close to cutting my bevels in 45 minutes.

Doug
 
Not much else to add. That is thick steel to try and file. I did my first 3 knives with the same set up and it took longer than 45 min. Aaron just makes it look easy in his video :). Keep going it will be worth it!
 
I assume you have good files, and they are cutting fine?
Click to expand...

Twelve inch Nicholson double cut @@@@@@@ file. I think it is in good condition. Something that worried me is that it seems one of the cut patterns is a lot fainter than the other. Is this normal?

Are you carding your file regularly and cleaning the teeth out?
Click to expand...

Been carding it out with a paint brush. Should I get an actual file card?
 
I keep my projects to 1/8" or less when I was making knives fueled by elbow grease! Have fun, It can be very meditative.:3:
 
Uh,huh....Nicholson files. And you said it yourself...some of the cut pattern looks deeper than others. Probably a Mexico made Nicholson file...or a Brazil made Nicholson file. Junk. If you use Nicholson, it should be USA made...and that limits you to old files or NOS. If you cant' get that, ditch those files and switch over to Simonds or Pferd or something else. If the chips are coming out with the paint brush...then use it. Usually a stiffer bristle is needed for some of the more stubborn pins that get lodged between the teeth! Use chalk or baby powder as well to help reduce pinning/loading. For extreme rapid steel removal, the Pferd 14" coarse chip breaker will go through annealed 1075 like the proverbial hot knife.

Besides all of that, the guys are right. 1/4" stock will take time to get through. Filing in the bevels has to be one of my favorite parts. Yep....very meditative!
 
Thanks, samuraistuart. Know anything about the Pferd flat plus files? I can't find anything called the chip breaker, or is that just a trade name for a @@@@@@@ file?
 
I made my first knife back in March with this set up. I think I still have the blisters on my hands... It took me about an hour a side, and I was using 1/8" 01Tool steel. I think you are on the right track, but will be at it for a while longer!!!
If by meditative, you mean, makes you feel like you are being tortured, then yes, VERY meditative...
- J
 
i like to use a file to start my bevel. some ideas for you. get a single cut file, it will cut easier. get the longest file you can, 12" or 14". google "Draw Filing" and look at the pictures/videos. you hold the file 90degrees to the blade and pull or push, i prefer to pull for better control of angle. the steel comes off in thin shavings not dust. i make a stroke, move the file 1/2", repeat until you have used up that side of the file. repeat on the other side, i wipe the file on my apron and start again. for a brand name, i have been using Bahco, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bahco-1-143...08611234?pt=US_Hand_Tools&hash=item35db114ea2, hard to beat 5 12" files for $20. Bahco is a division of Sandvik.
hope this helps.
 
One thing that I might inject here is; you are measuring the angle of 12 degrees but I think that is correct only if the base is set at 0 degrees. I might be wrong here, and if I am just ignore me. Also, on thicker steel, you may have to drop the angle to get the desired angle you want. If you stay with 1/4" stock, try free handing the angle until you get it "about" right, then measure the angle so you can duplicate it to the other side. I hope this makes some sense to you.
 
Hey everybody.

Just giving an update. I changed up my method and it seems to be working well. Instead of working the file across the length of the blade, I have decided to just work the file back and forth in small sections of the blade. This is working pretty well, as can be seen in this picture:

IMG_0732.jpg

I have done this roughly twice more after this photo, and now have most of this side of the blade done. Any opinions on this method?

Also, I found something that helped me keep the file free of chips:

IMG_0737.jpg

Stuff worked wonders. Sprinkled some on the file and then brushed the surface with a paint brush. Got it all out. It also seems to make the file cuts feel smoother.

That is it for now. Will update again when this side of the blade is done.
 
You'd have better luck starting with a mill/bas-tard file on 1/4" stock. Blend afterwards with the second cut file. Make up a seperate rod with each one. A bottle of white carpenters' chalk is handy and in a pinch, I've raided the queens' baby powder and shoe powder too.

Rudy
 
Waldors said:
Hola Knifedogs.

First timer here. Glad to say everything was fine up until this point.

I am now grinding my bevel with a home-made filing jig, and feel as if I am doing something wrong.
Gracias.
Click to expand...

Waldors said:
Hey everybody.

Just giving an update. I changed up my method and it seems to be working well. Instead of working the file across the length of the blade, I have decided to just work the file back and forth in small sections of the blade. .
Click to expand...

First thing let me help you with your terminology, you are not grinding your bevel, you are filing your bevel and believe me there is a big difference. I still do some file work at time on my blade edge, however after I built a KMG clone I have never looked back. One thing about filing a blade edge on a knife you have total control over the edge.

Like others have said buy the best files you can. Nicholson used to the absolute best their was in my opinion but, since the moved out of country their files are not worth bringing home. If you can still get an American made Nicholson file they are great! It will say on the package where it is made. If ordering files somewhere like ENCO, or MSC, call and ask if they are the American made files. Beyond the American made Nicholson files, I would then recommend Simonds. Here is a link to a very informative pdf from Simonds files.

http://www.simondsint.com/handfiles/HAND FILES PUBLICATIONS/File Facts.pdf

One of the best piece of advice I ever got when filing is to card often. The cleaner the file is the better it cuts and also to use chalk on the teeth of the file to help keep it from loading up so quick. I see you are using baby powder I have never tried but if it works what the hey! I have used the chalk and it will help a lot. Although my Grandsons frowned, :what!: when they caught me in there bucket of sidewalk chalk!:biggrin: Another thing if your file is galled (metal stuck in the teeth that looks like big chunks and carding will not remove this) take a piece of brass flat bar and push across the file width ways and the brass will skate across the file and will pick up and push out the galled metal!

Another thing it may have been your terminology but you said, "I have decided to just work the file back and forth in small sections of the blade." When filing you should make your forward stroke and then you should lift the file on the back stroke and again make your forward stroke. If you are dragging the file on the back stroke it will not cut but, that action will begin to dull down a file much quicker than lifting at the end of the stroke.

I agree the thickness of material is really thick for filing the edge in but, one thing is for sure you will appreciate a grinder at a later date when you get your first grinder. Most of us started out the way you are doing this one. It didn't take me long to figure out I wanted a grinder and I started purchasing one or two components to build a KMG clone off each knife sale I made!

Hang in there you are pretty much doing it all right, it just takes a while to get to where you are headed. Just think in the back of your mind, "are we there yet"!!:biggrin:
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top