Ed's right, nice job.
After blowing up the pics, it does look like those black lines along the edge are the valleys in your twist. It seems to me that they follow the diagonal lines of the blade. I'd be more concerned about a thin line crossing the diagonals. Like suggested, go round before twisting, square edges induce tremendous stresses to the laminations. When you twist a square edge billet, I'd consider the outer 1/4" as waste, if not more. You're actually burrying the valleys of the twist into the billet depending on how tightly it's twisted. If that blade was full quenched, you're also lucky it didn't crack. Each one of those divots in the spine is/could be a stress riser.
To blow up your pics, left click the pic until it won't grow anymore.
As far as the fillet knife... profile whatever thickness blank you'll be using and do all your grinding after heat treat. I do a fair amount of HT for other makers also and won't take a flat ground thin blade anymore...they warp or edge ribbon down the whole length of the blade. I've had better luck with the hollow ground blades in 3/32" or better (all stainless). If you use your rosebud, (not on stainless) don't heat the sides. You'll warp your blade, thin steel will move towards the heat source. Do all your heating from the spine and well away from the tip.
You'll be hooked sooner or later.
Rudy