Search results

I've never tried a pre-quench on 4V so I would love to hear your thoughts after testing. With my equip. I get max. AQ hardness (65-65.5) with a 1965 hardening temp, plate quench, & overnight LN2 soak. I triple temper between 350 & 450 depending on the application. Your equip. may give different...

I don't see the need to oil quench 4V. I've been using it since it first became available and have always plate quenched with excellent results. If you can get max. AQ hardnesses with plates, what do you gain by oil quenching?

Excuse my mental lapse, its happening more & more these days. LOL I agree that about the only way to fix it is to start over. When I have something like that happen, I either keep it for myself (I have several) LOL or give it to a friend or neighbor.

Taper your pin holes with a tapering reamer of the appropriate size. It doesn't take much of a taper. Just run the reamer in until it touches and then go about another 1/8" - 3/16" depending on actual hole/pin size. After that, just be sure you peen the crap out of the pins to really fill the holes.

Mobil-1 synthetic motor oil. Learned that from Mr. Frank Niro several years ago.

I hang my blades in the LN2 by wires so they have no side pressure on them. When I do get a warp its from stock that is .090" or thinner, is very slight and not hard to correct during tempering. Also, it tends to happen more with 13C26 than AEB-L. The only other alloy I've had a problem with in...

I've never found it necessary to oil quench air hardening steels. Using plates, my as quenched hardnesses are right on target without all the stresses of oil quenching. Just me experience with my equipment, others may find it beneficial or necessary.

I do the pre-quench. Before I started doing the pre-quench, I would sometimes get a warp during the LN2 soak. I would plate quench, unwrap, water quench to room temp., check for straightness, & the blade would come out of the LN2 with a slight warp. Since I started doing a pre-quench, I haven't...

I've seen that brand before. IIRC it was on the little machine shop site. Good to know that they're decent quality. I may give em a spin if I ever need another set.

I made one for my neighbor one that thin in M390 and warned him that it was for cutting, ZERO prying. He has used it for a couple of years now and loves it. Says its the best knife he's ever owned which makes me smile. So yeah, like everybody else said, just make sure the owner understands its...

When buying precision tools, buy the best you can get and you'll only cry once and I agree that Mitutoyo is the best I've ever used. If you can't afford Mitutoyo buy another set from HF until you can. Digital isn't necessary but they are nice. I also agree that calipers are only for "rough"...

I've never felt any need to use anything other than coil springs. If it aint broke, don't fix it.

One of my favorite shows. Good to see you on there. Hang in there, I think you just might get the hang of this knife/sword making thing one of these days. LOL One more thing. Can you give us a status update on the H/T book you told me about a few years back?

I would never use anything with end grain for that very reason. End grain is almost always gonna crack sooner or later.

I use rifle bore brushes chucked up in my drill press.

Thanks guys. Dennis-I sourced the stag but I did have it dyed by Culpepper. I've tried several methods to do it myself but have never been able to match the look that I get from Culpepper.

Thanks Brandant.

I've always wanted to do something Scagel styled and I finally got around to it. It didn't come out perfect but I learned what I need to know to do them right from now on. Blade is AEB-L @ 62 RC with a FFG and 600 grit hand rubbed finish. 4.5" long, 1.5" wide, & just shy of 1/8" thick at the...

First of all there are freeze treatments (dry ice & alcohol/acetone) and true cryo (liquid Nitrogen). Here are the steps. The temps. and times will be different from alloy to alloy and must be looked up in the data sheets for each alloy. 1. Wrap blades in foil. 2. Heat furnace to temp. and...

If your equipment is adequate and your procedures done correctly any steel commonly available can be done in the home shop. Its not rocket science. The proper procedures are all laid out in the data sheets from each company. Some steels can benefit from a slight variations here and there but you...