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is seal and have not seen movement in handles I sealed 5 years ago. use an oil finish, here is link to discussion of what they are and reviews of 100 or so different ones http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/wood-turning/techniques/finishing-and-abrasives/penetrative/oil-finishes-pt-1/ or use...

nice job. for future reference, look at Kreg pocket screws for assembly.

google wood stabilize. there are 3 or 4 places i found, all within 10% on price. you pay shipping both ways. they bill you after the stabilizing is done, they all say figure a doubling of weight. http://rrpwhite.com/wood-stabilizing/ http://www.kandgstabilizing.com/...

i think we should find out recipient on ship date. if i don't like the puce and chartreuse handle you send me Ted, i will complain

i did not use a chisel, but a straight router bit to make a spot for the tang

kitchen knives usually don't have a sheath. will think of an alternative.

the only rule i would like to see is you have to make the knife yourself from steel stock, no getting a finished blade from a 'friend' and putting a handle on it. would enjoy being part of the show, may help shake the blues.

how about doing a 2 piece hidden tang? split your block, router out spot for tang, drill for pins. if you use thin kerf saw, you may not see the assembly lines and it looks like a single piece of wood was used.

i wear welders gloves and have a fan blowing toward my back. walk thru putting blade in hot furnace and taking blade out to quench when everything is cold, this helps you find best spot for locating furnace and quench tank. i usually crack the door open for a second or so before opening all...

for me it is weight issue. stabilized wood or micarta just weighs more than plain wood. As Doug just said, wood has been knife handles for 1000's of years.

basic O1 HT. i use precision ground flat stock and do stock removal. pre-heat furnace to 1475-1500F. add blade. when temperature is back to 1475, start timing. I use about 8 minutes for 1/16" stock. quench in oil, canola at 120F works just fine. when knife is cool enough to touch, wipe...

what are the knives designed to do? it makes no sense to try and hammer a kitchen slicer thru a nail. for my kitchen blades, will it push cut newspaper, easily slice pork silver skin, cut meat or veg see thru thin? unless you have access to a good metallurgical lab, what will destructive...

what are the knives designed to do? it makes no sense to try and hammer a kitchen slicer thru a nail. for my kitchen blades, will it push cut newspaper, easily slice pork silver skin, cut meat or veg see thru thin? unless you have access to a good metallurgical lab, what will destructive...

reasonable price. here is a source https://www.victornet.com/alphabetic/Files-Mill/956.html. not the best, but less than $5 for a 12" mill file is a good price. they also have handles and cards

Edited to add: Well, technically you CAN draw cut (pull towards you) with a file for draw filing, but you'll have to swap the file handle to your left hand on a single cut file. The teeth still only cut in one direction, however. and remember kids, FILES ONLY DO ONE THING ON THE PULL STROKE...

what kinda steel you all got?? very few steels would not make an acceptable kitchen knife. O1 and A2 are available in 100's of sizes and many sources. O1 has the easier heat treat. for paring knives i like 1/32" or 3/64". slicers i like 1/16". heavy kitchen blades 3/32". buy thin, save...

huuhh?? direction the wheel turns is set by motor rotation or where buffer is on mount. agree though, make sure wheel is turning away from you at contact point.

enjoy. i have been using one like this for the several years http://dealerselectric.com/FM50-202-C.asp with no issues. used the savings i had over a KBAC unit and bought a second bench top drill press and fist full of drill bits.

you can find buffer pads with 5/8" holes and set screws. or get a 1/2" LH thread to 5/8" adapter. use same 3 phase motor you use for disc sander. i always have to buffing pad rotating away from me and only use the top. these folks offer good selection, service and pricing...

you are overthinking a bit. you are working with pretty heavy steel. i like 0.03" stock for paring knives