Second Hidden Tang Blade

[opaul]

I have incorporated the forums feedback to the second hidden tang blade. I have it tapered in profile but haven't tapered it along the flats. I rounded the tang ricasso/blade corners as well. I liked the first blade so much I want to duplicate it as much as possible.

 

[Rick Otts]

Looks good getter done

 

[springer82]

Op,,, you need to get out more!!! lol,,,

 

[Chris Railey]

You can crank them out op. The shoulders look much better.

 

[Von Gruff]

You could have a try at putting a peen block on your handle OP and doing a through tang. Just another little challenge for you as you seem to be a very quick learner so that would be another string to your bow.

 

[opaul]

You could have a try at putting a peen block on your handle OP and doing a through tang. Just another little challenge for you as you seem to be a very quick learner so that would be another string to your bow.

Thanks for the vote of confidence Von! I may just try that. I like that look too.
Would it still require a pin or is the peen sufficient to hold it all together.

Also, could you post a picture of that tool you made to clean out the drill hole for the hidden tang?
Also, a couple of close ups of the peened thru tang...……………….. THANKS!

 

[opaul]

Question for you guys.
Have any of you ever did a hidden tang by re-sawing the handle and chiseling out the tang shape? I was thinking I might do one of these. I did one when I first started - it wasn't fancy and it didn't have a bolster on it. Here a picture of that one. In addition to the visable pin, I also installed a hidden pin for more integrity.

 

[Von Gruff]

Thanks for the vote of confidence Von! I may just try that. I like that look too.
Would it still require a pin or is the peen sufficient to hold it all together.

Also, could you post a picture of that tool you made to clean out the drill hole for the hidden tang?
Also, a couple of close ups of the peened thru tang...……………….. THANKS!

Here you go OP.

This is a copy of the Stromerg Leku I did some time back

And while I didn't take a pic of the peened tang on the one I did this is from the Stromerg site showing the brass butt cap and the through tang peened so there is no need for a pin through the tang.

What I dod for this one was to cut the tang at about the mid length point and slot a 1/4 inch mild steel rod in about a 1/2 in and weld it so that you start off by deep drilling a 1/4 inch hole the length of the handle then procede to cut out the slot for the tang. The bolster cup or plate covers the front of the handle so the 1/4 inch hole which is larger than the 1/8 or 3/16 blade material is covered

 

[Von Gruff]

This is another way to do it OP with a threaded rod rather than a plain rod and in this tutorial the guy makes a threaded butt cap for a hidden finish
http://www.logiudicecustomknives.com/tutorials/hidden_tang/

 

[Kevin Zito]

This looks great op!

 

[scott.livesey]

Question for you guys.
Have any of you ever did a hidden tang by re-sawing the handle and chiseling out the tang shape? I was thinking I might do one of these. I did one when I first started - it wasn't fancy and it didn't have a bolster on it. Here a picture of that one. In addition to the visable pin, I also installed a hidden pin for more integrity.

i did not use a chisel, but a straight router bit to make a spot for the tang

 

[JeremyBartlett]

I have one of bruce bump's broach tools, but I'm not sure if he makes them anymore. I only paid like $75 for it and they had them here on usaknifemaker.com. Definitely a time saver.

 

[C Craft]

Bruce has some fine ones. These are mine I went to the mission and bought a couple of Old Hickory butcher knives. Take your time and cut them down to the shape you want. For $2.00 each I came up with these. Make sure when you are cutting them down to leave enough for the teeth to be cut in! Then sharpen the teeth like you would the teeth on a handsaw!! I have used them for wood and inside of antler!! Use a long small bit and drill down into the wood or the antler. Go slow so you don't pop out, stop and measure the depth often! Bruce's are carbide if I remember right. So you don't have to sharpen them. Mine are easily sharpened with a V file if you need to. After all your not trying to cut a 2x4 in two, you are trying to cut out enough in the wood for your hidden tang. Always allow a bit more so you can get plenty of epoxy in the hole with the tang, unless you are going with a thru tang and then you want a tighter fit!!

 

[opaul]

Bruce has some fine ones. These are mine I went to the mission and bought a couple of Old Hickory butcher knives. View attachment 64062Take your time and cut them down to the shape you want. For $2.00 each I came up with these. Make sure when you are cutting them down to leave enough for the teeth to be cut in! Then sharpen the teeth like you would the teeth on a handsaw!! I have used them for wood and inside of antler!! Use a long small bit and drill down into the wood or the antler. Go slow so you don't pop out, stop and measure the depth often! Bruce's are carbide if I remember right. So you don't have to sharpen them. Mine are easily sharpened with a V file if you need to. After all your not trying to cut a 2x4 in two, you are trying to cut out enough in the wood for your hidden tang. Always allow a bit more so you can get plenty of epoxy in the hole with the tang, unless you are going with a thru tang and then you want a tighter fit!!View attachment 64063

Innovation at it's finest. Great job on those.

 

[C Craft]

Innovation at it's finest. Great job on those.

I used to help my father sharpen handsaws, in fact I still have his sharpening guide and the set for the angle of the tooth!