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Informative and fun as usual. I do know that after a few other classes with him I need to attend one that concentrates only on grinding. Dave can spot you making a mistake before you even start making it :) I highly recommend that anyone starting out and seriously wanting to make good knives...

I did a noob boo-boo and wonder if there is any way to reverse the consequences… I cut a piece of Elk antler to make a hidden tang handle from and was marking a centerline for drilling and used a ‘Sharpie’ permanent marker. Antler is porous (duh) and now I’m stuck with a black line down the...

It's fun.

Very nice.

Here's a few of the things I've done to the shop and a few of the blades I'm working on. I wanted to post a picture so Randy wouldn't think I was going to destroy his hard work. First one top blade started life as a truck coil spring, notice the BJ use? The bottom one in the first picture...

Thanks Travis, if the holes in the template were laid out right you could do that with a full tang. Or is that something that isn't done?

Very interesting, thank you for sharing.

Oops, yes I meant butt cap.

What is the 'best',here's that word again..... What are some various way's to attach a butt cap on a hidden tang when the tang does not protrude through the rear of the handle? Will epoxy hold it well enough or is there some other secret old maker trick?

I really like these, you do great work. Is the powder for filling in the voids? And yeah, I'm new.

Tested the Harbor Freight portable band saw, after installing a Lenox 24 tpi blade, I saved the HF one for any wood cutting I might want to do. On Aldos 1095 it cut just fine, on a flattened and annealed truck coil spring it cut just fine. Speed control worked but not really too well. I...

Yesterday I bought the HF portable, $114 including a two year no questions asked warranty. On the way home a stop at Lowes for a 3 pack of Lennox metal cutting blades. Today I'll be cutting some 1095 & forged flat & anealed coil spring. More info tonight.

What is the "EK" on the one blade for?

I've seen your name around a lot. Haven't met you but hope to, nice to have your knowledge base at hand.

What is fine? Is that normal looking if the heat treat is good for the mystery metal? Had that been a blade would it be ok to temper it now? Thanks for the input.

I did a quick test on a piece tonight. I heated it a bit to get it into a flat piece with a slightly tapered edge. I heated up again in the forge and let it air cool while the oven warmed up, About 10 minutes. I put it in the oven and let it stay there at 1550* for about 15 min. I took it...

Thanks for all the input. I fired up my 220V oven last night for the first time and set all the parameters in the PID. Heats up very quickly (10 min or less to 1550) and maintains the heat (+-) 5*. I'm happy, thanks again for the input. Now for another question. My shop is a small building...

I don't think there is any 'best'. It's what an individual gets the 'best' results from. The question should be, "When (whatever) what method do you use? Teach me all the various methods and I'll figure out the 'best' way for me to do it.

I'm making some knives for friends that enjoy old Ford trucks like I do. I would like to make them from early 60's Ford pick-up front coils. Anyone know what kind of steel they might be? I'd like to 'assume' they would be 5160 unless someone has a better idea. Thanks.

I love pictures too. Thank you Mark, I think a scandi will do what I want....at least until my AADD sets in again. :3: