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That's a beautiful blade. I like the simplicity of the blade and the elegance of the handle combined with it. I've been following your posts here and on other forums, and your work, and that of your son is first rate. Thanks for sharing, and being inspirational. John www.gearhartironwerks.com

where to start Seider, I'm not a chef..scrambled eggs? Anyhow, I've been giving local chefs some blades to work with for feedback. The most common comment is to make them thinner. I thought they were thin, but apparently not enough, so I'm working on that. Imho, there's no better feedback...

Can someone please suggest a size to use when uploading to get a crisp photo? Thanks, John

These are new within the past several weeks. I work as a full time blacksmith/fabricator making furniture, lighting, firescreens etc. so don't get as much time to spend making blades as I'd like. I've never taken a class, so what you see is from the school of hard knocks/wasted material...and...

Nice looking blades. I like the simplicity and cleanliness. John Emmerling

Greetings, Don't laugh too much. I don't have this process down to where it's predictable. I used 3 equal pcs of 3/16 x 1 1/2 with 1095 as the core. I used 304 outside because I had it. It welded with no problems. I'd like to get more of a hamon looking line between the sides and the core, yet...

Imho, the key is not the background, but rather the positioning of, and kind of light. The background can be anything. The key to successful jewelry/blade photos is to have a soft diffused light that is spread enough to encompass/wash the blade is a soft light that does not wash out portions of...

The problem is not the bulbs, but more the spread of the light. The diffusion material could be greater and the light source moved farther away from the diffusion. More highlight, move the source closer as you have seen. Greater diffusion, try pulling it back. Also, you may want to try using a...

Mike, Thanks for the compliments. Much appreciated. John

Ok, so here's my take on your forge build: The soft bricks, while they reflect more heat than the hard bricks (which hold more heat) will not last long. If you plan to forge weld, they'll be gone after your first attempt. If you are determined to use them, think about making the bottom of the...

Randy, Must be the heat where the blade is as they look like they have a belly. Thanks, John

Eric, I sell finished blades out of my shop and in a small knife shop across the street. At this point, weekends are my play days for pointy things. The rest of the week I actually have to make a living...what's with that? :) John Emmerling www.gearhartironwerks.com

Hi, They all have flat grinds. Convex on the final sharpening. Cal buckeye gets my vote too. It kind of depends on what I can find. Haven't done any stainless damascus per se, but have done some san mai billets w/stainless out and a 1095 core. John

No names...couldn't repeat them if I wanted to. The top two are obviously feathers. The top and middle were random patterns that had absolutely no interest as forged, so I cut, added a layer of L6, then welded, slit for the feather, re welded, turned and drew them out. They were some of those...

These are 1095/L6. The larger is 5160/L6. Thanks for looking. Comments welcome. John

Interesting press dies. Thanks, John

Hi, i've been using a saw cut soft brick to keep the blades upright. I've used a fairly wide cut, just to hold the blades with little else touching. I start with the blades at room temp and bring the heat up with blades in place. When etching, the blades etch differently at and near where they...

Nice...snakewood furniture? John Emmerling

So, oil it is? I was hoping for a magic bullet... Thanks for the help, John

Hello, I'm new to the forum and am interested in low temp salt baths. I have a high temp salt bath, and would like to follow up with a low temp bath rather than oil. I have a gas burner and 4"x 18" stainless tube for a crucible and the Brownells salts. I've been reading that a temp of 400 is...