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Yeah the convex is pretty heavy I just wanted to try it to see how it would do I’m probably gonna forge weld a pc of 1095 into the next one I make and bring the beard down and closer to the handle like more of a camp axe than a tomahawk

I mostly like making folders so I was just trying to make something that is small for smaller blades..... I’m still thinking I’m not set on anything yet but I really need to come up with something soon cause I have a bunch of blanks cut and people asking for blades but I don’t wanna sell any yet...

Sounds like I should be good since I’m going for toughness

I definitely tempered it right away I was just wondering since I have never did it like that if I would have trouble but I may just be over thinking it I might just go with it since it’s just for me and not a customer it won’t be a problem

Awesome thanks ..... this is what I have my name is to long and I kinda wanted something simple so I came up with south forge and this is what I came up with been thinking of coming up with something a little more but I kinda like stuff simple and to the point ?

What does a stencil like that cost and how long will it last just trying to weigh my options I understand if you don’t wanna disclose that info but I’m just trying to get a ballpark idea

Yeah that’s what I was thinking after the fact

Yeah I’m definitely tempering I make all my knives from 1095 and I’ve got that process down ....that’s not my question my bad what I was really asking is about the differential quench whether or not it’s pointless or if I will gain some flexibility by doing it so my blade won’t snap if I get...

Material is 1095 my bad

I’m working on my bushcraft knife and wondering how I should do the quench/ heat treat for a blade that will hold up to chopping and batoning wood..... will I benefit from a differential quench or will I lose strength .... any thoughts ...... I just normalized and did a differential quench and...

Cool logos I like the rooster that was gonna be my theme when I was first looking at making a makers mark but I went a different route ...... the elk one is my favorite though ...... I have a logo ready for a stencil or punch but I can’t decide which route to go what is better stencil for...

This is my latest knife..... lock back with very dark cocobolo handles and nickel bolsters the liners are brass and the blade is 1095 this knife turned out really nice it has a nice crisp snap when it locks with zero blade play I’m very proud of this knife

Here is a tomahawk from a high carbon railroad spike.... I have heard a lot of stuff about railroad spikes not hardening..... but I did a number of normalizing steps and did a soak before I quenched and this thing is perfect I chopped 10 trees 2 inch diameter and the blade will still shave ...

Here is my next project...... there is a few tools I need and gotta order some pivots and screws and a few other parts just got it drawn up

Here is some fixed blades I’m working on I keep putting them on the back burner to build folders I need to get them finished

Here is a little short handle pocket carry fix blade I built for myself I left the black on from the quench cause I thought it looked cool cocobolo bolster with leather stack handle with brass and black g10 stack to give it some nice lines

Awesome I come through fairhope occasionally

Here is one my grandpa requested 1095 60 Rockwell aluminum handles super thin knife feels awesome in hand ... did it 2 weeks ago

Fillet knife I made for a friend 1095 with Osage orange hidden tang handle this is my second knife did this one about 5 years ago

Awesome I’m from Lucedale just up from the coast I hunt on Tom big bee river just south of Tupelo.....