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i use nickel silver pins frequently - its harder than brass so tends to heat quickly - you must grind slowly with frequent periods of "rest" to allow pin to cool

just tested a couple of well known name brand factory knives using Japanese-made testing files. they were testing at about 55 - two questions - are these testing files reliably accurate and if so is 55 rockwell acceptable for a mid-level price factory blade ( want to avoid any specific brand...

victorinox swiss army - don't know model - it has 8 or 9 blades and gets used often also a little ontario rat II in back pocket.

I definitely wouldn't sell it ! its a nazi dagger and VERY collectable. do some research and ask the appropriate price if you do decide to sell

I use E6000 get it at walmart - the stuff is incredibly strong. I have had occasion to disassemble sheaths and the leather is destroyed before this adhesive gives way. I place sheath on a 12in. long 4x6 block of wood and lay a 12 in. piece of 3/4 x 3 oak plank on the sheath with weights on top...

spend some time in the florida woods (and i suspect elsewhere as well) and you can find what I call hard-rock oak. some oak instead of rotting away apparently goes thru some sort of seasoning process and becomes almost petrified - it is so dense and heavy it is hard on saw blades (doesn't float)...

thanks to all for feedback - as to the question posed "why", it was implied by the individual that in no uncertain terms it is superior to epoxy - i was skeptical of the claim and now VERY skeptical of the claim. i think i just not bother with any "experiments" in this matter. g-flex has always...

just wonderin' if anybody out there using C/A glue for final application of handle scales as opposed to epoxy ? in a recent conversation w/ a very experienced knifemaker - the method was using a knife vise, the scale is place on one side of the handle and LIGHTLY clamped then trace around...

of course on the other hand, if it had a belt loop it could be worn and people could see the cool sheath !

i'm thinkin' it's fine without belt loop - seems like most filet knives are stored in tackle box or in drawer at cleaning station ?

oh yes - it appears that a resident population of those little pests exists around my shop !!

hand stitching a large sheath and after about 3/4 through slowly coming to grips with the fact that you may not have cut the thread long enough. (fortunately one learns quickly - cut it long !)

definitely impressive piece ! what finish on metal ? is it blued ?

OK - once again thanks for all the input - it seems as tho corian doesn't need to be sealed. i think i will try tru oil and then maybe do a stain test on a piece of scrap - results will be forthcoming

thanks guys for the input - my concern was since the knife is ostensibly a fillet knife, would the corian tend to stain from contact with blood ? maybe try sealing with tru-oil ? what are your thoughts ?

question - just finished a fillet/boning knife with corian (actually a corian clone ) handle scales. i'm happy with the handle - first time using corian - its nice to work with but do i need to seal it with something ? couldn't find answer on the forum. anybody have an answer for me ? thanks dogs

when dyeing leather, i place the dye container (fiebings 4 oz) in a small canned corn can to stabilize and prevent spillage.

one solution would be to just purchase a carbide bit - it will drill hardened steel - be slow and careful, they break easily.

the handle scales - gorgeous - is it cocobolo ?

WOW ! don't know what else to say - just WOW !