2x42 craftsman glass platen?

I have no idea on the size platen on that grinder.
Match the size that is on the grinder if you can. Make sure it's fully supported.
I wouldn't go bigger in height by much if any, pressure or any bumps could snap the glass. Tracy can probably help more than anyone on size and mounting instructions. I remember seeing a tutorial on it but I can't remember where.

Rudy
 
I bought the 6" one for my Craftsman. It's a little shorter than the stock platen but that's better than having it hanging over. Measure yours, if it's an older one it may be different.

Instructions are in the product details.

Mark where your belts track on your platen so you can line it up decently. Then remove it and clean it up, scuff it up a little bit for the JB-weld to stick well. I didn't build a ledge like Tracy did but it couldn't hurt. Grind off any sharp edges or corners on the glass before you mount it. You can grind it just like steel. Glue 'er on there where you marked. Use tape or maybe rubber bands, NOT clamps. Let it cure up overnight and re-install the whole thing; there's plenty of adjustment room to account for the extra thickness.

It's a really good upgrade, I wouldn't want to be without it. :thumbup:
 
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Buy two pieces when you find out what size to get. I just put in an order to Tracy afew weeks ago then was grinding a couple days later and cracked mine. It lasted about six months. I would have put a new one on it already if I had ordered 2. Now I don't want to pay the shipping for one piece of glass.
 
Ceramic glass is awesome on a platen. In the trade it's called fireplace glass and commonly available at every glass store. It's also common they charge you for at least a square foot plus a cut charge for each cut. I tried to find it myself several times where it was less than $50 a piece. I couldn't but that was before I got into selling it. It is NOT easy to cut this stuff on your own like common window glass. It takes a carbide wheel and you get one chance to score it correctly and then snapping it off is 50/50 of it breaking cleanly. I do occasionally cut a piece shorter using my diamond blade on the wet tile saw. That is a gamble every time as it is prone to crack.

2 really important things. If a piece of this comes loose at full speed, and it has for several guys, it's a really bad situation as you can imagine. I use JB Weld as it seems to have the highest heat tolerance of all the epoxies I have seen that are commonly available. If the epoxy you chose fails at around 210F, don't use it. Test it by boiling. I use a little ledge to support the glass in case the epoxy fails but I also have some platens that don't have the support.

When you glue the glass on, do not use a clamp. Let it float on the epoxy (a few air bubbles as possible for even heat dissipation please) and tape it place to cure. If you clamp it, you will bend it slightly and build stress into the glass. When it heats up, it will crack. I learned this the hard way after 2 quick failures.
 
Use the slow cure JB Weld. According the the web site, it is rated to 500°F, the fast cure stuff is rated at 300°F. I used the slow cure stuff and have not had any problems. I was absolutely amazed how much it improved the performance of my Grizzly. They are well worth the $$.

Ric
 
Did you know you can clean up - grind - the edges of ceramic glass with a cork belt? I had a bunch cut for me when the price was right and did all the clean up myself. As well, I ground the top and bottom edges off into an arc . Frank
 
Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I felt like I probably shouldn't start an almost identical thread when this one was already out there.

I have one of these coming in the mail next week and want to get a glass platen for it. So, anyone have a measurement for the stock platen? Based on the above answers, somewhere between 6 and 8 inches, but anyone with one in their shop feel like measuring it? Is it better to have the glass liner too short or too long?

Again, sorry for the thread necromancy.

Thanks,
Jay
 
6" leaves you room for a shelf or couple of bolts to catch it if it slides. I'm going with ceramic tile myself only because I'm cheap, but Tracys Pyrex platens are awesome by all accounts!
 
I definitely recommend building a ledge below your glass as added insurance.

Currently, I have a piece stuck to my platen with a small ledge underneath, and some good double sided carpet tape to hold it in place. Been working like a charm for months now.... and I've gotten that glass HOT.... no cracks... no slipping. (Knock on wood....) hahahah
 
These glass platen covers are awesome. Will really help your grinding. I use the slow cure JB Weld, scratch up the back of the glass with a hogger belt (wear a resperator!) and smooth the JB Weld onto you platen in a horizontal level position. Use a popicle stick to dam up the JB Weld at the bottom of the glass to make a shelf. This will help support the glass should it come loose. Use tape to hold it in place. I have never had mine come loose. Have the glass on 2 grinders and got both pieces from Tracy. wiggle it around to get the air bubbles out and let it cure fro a couple of days and it is ready to go.
 
Awesome, thanks guys. I've never used a glass platen, but am pretty excited about trying it out.

Trust me, you'll be glad you did.

My grinding is night and day better than before I had the glass liner. The mild steel I used to use would wear out in no time, and it would be pert near impossible to get a straight or flat grind. You just need to be careful not to slam tools, blades, and toolrests into it, as it's a little less durable than steel when it comes to impacts. That being said, it will wear slower than even hardened steel.

Worth every penny at twice the cost!
 
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