A few more framelock questions

Justin Presson

Justin Presson

Well-Known Member
As ya know I'm working on my first framelock and I still have a few questions if anyone can help.

First is do you set the angle of the lock face at the same angle as the blade tang?

When finishing titanium what grit do you sand to before sandblasting and what media do you sandblast it with afterwards....also do you plug your pivot holes and such so they do not get sand blasted?

Drill detent ball and set it before hardening blade or after with carbide bit?

Last one is not sure how far to take my lock cut back, does this look about right?
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Thanks in advance.
JP
 
As ya know I'm working on my first framelock and I still have a few questions if anyone can help.

First is do you set the angle of the lock face at the same angle as the blade tang?

No. Generally guys will set the blade lock angle around 8.5 to 9.5degrees. Much more and it slides off, much less and it binds. The lock bar face can have a 2 to 3 degree angle on it to give just a bit more lockup and wear face but matching the angles will probably give a lot of sticktion.

When finishing titanium what grit do you sand to before sandblasting and what media do you sandblast it with afterwards....also do you plug your pivot holes and such so they do not get sand blasted?

you should have too much of a problem blasting with 80 to 120 grit and open holes. I would ream the holes to size after blasting. try a mix of glass beads and AO testing until you find a texture you like.

Drill detent ball and set it before hardening blade or after with carbide bit?

before, it's easier but it works out about the same.

Last one is not sure how far to take my lock cut back, does this look about right?

No real rule on this. It appears a bit longer than average. You never said how thick the Ti is so it's hard to say if the lock bar will flex awkwardly in use. You will have to thin it out to get it to take a bend and be able to move it with your thumb.

Thanks in advance.
 
I like all of Tracy's answers. If the liner for the leaf spring is going to be .138 thick, you will need to thin an area near the start of the cut at the back to about .050 or so or once bent if you could manage that, you would never move it out of the way to unlock the blade.
Frank
 
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