Lyon
Well-Known Member
:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin: Never hurts to say a prayer. I haven't cut many lock bars and it still gives me a pretty good sweat. Here is a bit of a video.https://www.instagram.com/p/BKEEj7eDIJY/?taken-by=matt_lyon_custom_knives
Start off by picking your lines for the lock bar and lock face. Using a center drill place the holes then drill them for the start and end of your cut. This will give you a clean start and ending point for the cut (I used a #48). For the lock face part of the lock bar you need to have the lock face on the blade all ready cut then assemble it on the liner and scribe the line. Be brave and cut right NEXT to the line.
On titanium I like using a cobalt jewelers saw with as many teeth as you can get. I am spinning at about 100 RPM. I am using light pressure and lots of cutting fluid. Once it gets close to punching through I pick a spot in the middle to make the plunge and cut to the holes. I found that if you let the lock bar rest against the arbor it cuts down on the vibrations quite a bit. To stabilize the lock face cut I clamped a couple pieces of scrap metal above the vice that is holding the work piece.
Using an arbor and cobalt jewelers saw costs more but the quality is so much better than using an abrasive cut off wheel. I tried using high speed steel but it dulled instantly.
I am working on a WIP thread here if you want to see more. http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?44669-Custom-folding-kinfe-WIP
Start off by picking your lines for the lock bar and lock face. Using a center drill place the holes then drill them for the start and end of your cut. This will give you a clean start and ending point for the cut (I used a #48). For the lock face part of the lock bar you need to have the lock face on the blade all ready cut then assemble it on the liner and scribe the line. Be brave and cut right NEXT to the line.
On titanium I like using a cobalt jewelers saw with as many teeth as you can get. I am spinning at about 100 RPM. I am using light pressure and lots of cutting fluid. Once it gets close to punching through I pick a spot in the middle to make the plunge and cut to the holes. I found that if you let the lock bar rest against the arbor it cuts down on the vibrations quite a bit. To stabilize the lock face cut I clamped a couple pieces of scrap metal above the vice that is holding the work piece.
Using an arbor and cobalt jewelers saw costs more but the quality is so much better than using an abrasive cut off wheel. I tried using high speed steel but it dulled instantly.
I am working on a WIP thread here if you want to see more. http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?44669-Custom-folding-kinfe-WIP
Last edited:
). This one is "1 3/4 inch" diameter. .025 thick 90 teeth and .5 inch arbor.