Another warped blade thread....or is it..?

N.N

N.N

Well-Known Member
I ordered some 1095 from USAknifemaker. Three 12" lengths. I used 2 of the lengths to make knives already. After the heat treat I noticed they had warped pretty severely, which I found odd because I never seem to have a problem with it especially with stock removal and properly annealed steel from reputable companies. I managed to get them straight enough for my knife and my buddies knife, but they aren't perfect. I always leave more than a dimes width of stock on the edge prior to heat treat just to be sure, and I used the "shimming with a penny during temper" method to straighten them.

This past weekend, I was working on a third knife with this last piece of 1095. I had a hard time getting the flat grind straight on one side. I look down the spine and it's already warped like crazy from tip to butt. I realized the 2 others where probably the same. Why I'm just now checking for straightness before grinding...just call it inexperience.

I guess I'm making this thread because I've never noticed this to be a problem when ordering steel in smaller lengths like this and I need to ask how you deal with it.

Would it be better to try and hammer it out right now before heat treat or wait and try to correct later? Is it ok to stick it in the over at around 300 and try the shim thing now, before heat treat? What methods do you use?
 
Frank Niro said:
I straighten before any grinding whatsoever. I do all my bevels after heat treat. Frank
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I'll certainly be paying more attention to how straight the steel is before grinding anything for sure. But will a little heat affect the annealed steel in an already partially beveled blade to straighten it...or will a good ol hammer to simply try and bend it right now work just fine?
 
I straighten up blades as I forge them using my post vise and a wooden beater board. I start at the ricaso and clamp the spine tight to straighten. Then back to the ricaso and then straighten the tang to the rest of the knife. I use the board to tap the blade edge in line. The amount of this I do depends on how much straightening is needed.
 
TacticallySharp said:
I straighten up blades as I forge them using my post vise and a wooden beater board. I start at the ricaso and clamp the spine tight to straighten. Then back to the ricaso and then straighten the tang to the rest of the knife. I use the board to tap the blade edge in line. The amount of this I do depends on how much straightening is needed.
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Thanks George! I guess I'm going to try to beat it back in line. Does bending room temperature annealed steel stress it like it could if if was already hardened?....(I don't really know what I'm talking about here, just making sure it's ok and learning.)
 
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