Anybody know........??????

Brian, I realize this thread has pretty much run its course, but when I looked up the TUS tech info, the EX-9B electrolyte seems to be used for just about anything EXCEPT stainless and carbon/tool steels.
They have it listed for aluminum, chrome, brass, etc.
And have you tried the ones they do have listed for our knife steels?
You have the time to enlighten us on that choice?
If not - that's fine as well.
Great video.
 
Here is a good video from ARCustomKnives using a motor brush.

http://youtu.be/Cf4FfjmMcTw?list=UUGTRbXIkgnnse5SZN9bcAog

What do you know... people DO watch my vids. :happy:


As I believe I stated in that video, I did get the idea from Brian Fellhoelter who already posted.
I've used q-tips, stainless/wood etchpads, mild steel etch pads, and even an alloyed motor brush.

The carbon brushes definitely work the best. I'm able to etch at much lower voltages and get a much cleaner etch, and my stencils are lasting a heck of a lot longer.
 
Thanks to all for putting such valuable info in one place. I recently switched to etching my mark on most of blades and the methods you guys described will go far in making it a better mark. Thanks!!!
 
Just an update.......Brian's methodology works great! Seems the more windex you spray on the blade/stencil, the better mark I achieve...and the less "shadow" occurs! The only issue I'm seeing is that the stencils are only lasting for 3-5 marks. Mine are from Ernie at Blue Lighting, and what I'm getting is that the "filler" materialin the stencils gets eaten out of the stencil, and makes it like a piece of window screen after 3-5 uses.
 
I'm guessing that maybe Ernie uses the blue stuff that you can buy and make your own stencils with?

That stuff cracks and spider webs so much....

My first big leap in mark quality was going to pro-grade stencils.

The second was using this technique.

I once got over 100 marks with one stencil in a weekend.
 
Ed,
It may be that you are getting a much better current through your new etch pad, which would possibly burn your stencils up faster on a similar voltage setting. Try turning your voltage down and see what happens.

Now, THAT being said, I too use Ernie's stencils, but switched to T.U.S. (same as Brian) within the last year or so, and the life I get out of T.U.S. stencils vs. Ernie's is night and day. They are much easier to position as well, due to being quite a bit more transparent.

I still use Ernie's for "one off" stencils as needed, due to the set up price for T.U.S., but the savings will be remarkable for the re-prints, IF I ever get through my current batch of common stencils.
 
Oh, and I find myself using windex for lots of things in the shop now too. Wet sanding, etching, cleaning off buffing compound, wiping down my surface plate, cleaning my glass platen liner, etc...

It's as useful as WD40 and duct tape!
 
Yeah, for your own makers mark, buy the spendy ones, for one offs, a better deal is a better deal.
And longevity is not an issue....
 
I'll have to check onto T.U.S. and their stencils. I just recently ordered another batch from Ernie, and told him of the issue I was having...he gave me some hints that might be helpful......but will certainly check out T.U.S.

Karl......No, just the opposite! The windex works great...and the more I slather on, the easier and cleaner the marks come out.
 
For what it is worth Ed, the TUS stencils are just about bomb proof.
Buy the gold ones.
I used to throw them away after marking a batch, but just because I didn't want to deal with them curling and stuff.
If I remember right, $35ish to create the master, and $15 or so per sheet after that.
I'd do a sheet with 5 stencils per sheet, so they are about $3 each after the initial art is done.

In the grand scheme of things, with knives that are hundreds of dollars each, amortizing these costs across a bunch of knives, marking is just about free.
 
This is one of the more helpful threads I've read in a while. My ghetto setup may need some upgrading after reading this. Currently, it's saltwater, q-tips, and my plug in battery charger.... Shocking, but I don't get the most consistent etching with this... :rolleyes:

Jeremy
 
For what it is worth Ed, the TUS stencils are just about bomb proof.
Buy the gold ones.
I used to throw them away after marking a batch, but just because I didn't want to deal with them curling and stuff.
If I remember right, $35ish to create the master, and $15 or so per sheet after that.
I'd do a sheet with 5 stencils per sheet, so they are about $3 each after the initial art is done.
In the grand scheme of things, with knives that are hundreds of dollars each, amortizing these costs across a bunch of knives, marking is just about free.

Is this the place you are talking about when you say TUS, Fellhoelter?? That's what came up when I googled TUS!

http://www.tustech.com/admin/ec
 
I watched Brians video awhile back and that windex tip is huge benefit in decreasing that ghosting nastiness. Now I am going to pick up a motor brush and some of those TUS stencils as well.

So glad I saw this thread :)

Oh also you can by "Graphite blocks" on ebay for less then 10 bucks. Big enough to cut down to any size you want
 
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I am going to have to give windex a try, this thread is full of useful info! :D it is well worth supporting the forum!
 
I'd not thought about using a carbon brush myself - I'd read on Ernie's site where he says use a brass bar for the pad. Since there is a covering over the pad that holds the actual electrolyte, I'm not sure if there's any real difference in use of carbon/graphite compared to brass/copper bar. Seems like I did read somewhere to use a carbon bar to clean the stencil????

I'll try windex myself to see how it works for me. Thanks to all for the info - I'm just learning about electro-etching. Works really good - I like the result better than the CNC I'd been using.

Ken H>
 
Ken, after reading that post and watching the video, I immediately rebuilt my etcher pad. I hopped on eBay and bought a 2 pack of carbon brushes, China of course, for $0.98 and free shipping. Good thing it came with 2 because I pulled the copper wire off the first one after soldering it on the lead. Second one was fine. I actually used a wine bottle cork for the holder. Cut out a square hole in one end for the brush to sit in and fed lead through other end. Got a sheet of felt at Walmart for about a buck. The carbon brush works way better than stainless steel pad I had before.
 
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