Anyone have any experience adjusting runout on a DP

C Craft

C Craft

Well-Known Member
More specifically has anyone got any experience adjusting runout on a drill press, made by Rigid Model #15501?????

http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/100037...toreId=10051&N=5yc1v&R=100037270#.UVxolDeS9QU

Now I didn't pay what they got this one priced at, (but it is the same machine)! I got mine on sale a couple of years ago for about half of that, or I would be whizzed off!

I have had a lot of bad luck with breaking small bits and I think I finally figured that it is the run out that is what is causing the problem.

I know how to check it with a dial indicator my problem is how to adjust it back as close to zero as possible. The book doesn't even mention how to re-adjust it! This drill press is not that old and has never been used as a mill as I know they are not designed for that kind of punishment.

There hasn't been anything built that can't be re-built or adjusted I just need a little guidance on this particular mode! ANYONE got an experience with this model of drill press?????????

And yes I know it's not the best out there but it was all I could afford at the time, so got to deal with what I got!!!! There has got to be a conventional method for adjustment or the not so tried and true unconventional way to adjust this drill press..
 
It says you have a 3 year limited warranty, Can you take it back? That's the best way to fix it.

If it's the spindle in the head that has worn down I don't think it can be repaired? I hope Im wrong.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com
 
Have you checked the table to be at 90 degrees? You can place a Z bent piece of coat hanger or wire in the chuck, bend the other end of the wire to just touch the table in any spot, turn the chuck by hand . Is the wire end the same height from the table all around? If not you can overlay a thin plate and shim it so it is. Hope this helps. Frank
 
Besides what's been mentioned, the only way to tighten tolerances on that drill press would be to pull the cheap import bearings that come in them, and replace them with "High quality" bearings. In some cases I've seen rigid (and other brands) who's housing was made of a softer cast iron/steel, and the excessive run-out was caused by the bearings' outer race actually being harder then the casting that holds it and literally "wallowing out" the casting....that equals "slop". I helped another maker fix a similar rigid drill press, and found that the casting was so soft that it had created a lip above and below the outer bearing race......and the bearing was "flopping" around inside there....held in my the "lips" created. Most of the time that will happen rather quickly on a drill press that's being used with a cross-vise, and end mills like some folks do. On the one I spoke about, I had to use a die grinder to remove the lip, then search out a bearing that was .005" larger OD to get the bearings to "press fit" it in. Another option if there is slop between the bearing OD and the casting is to use a "filler" material like Loctite 660 retaining compound....on the OD of the bearing to "fill in" any slop from a worn out "press fit" bearing.

They just don't make em like they used to.
 
Hey Buddy :)

I've got this exact model. The first tool I bought for my knifemaking endeavors.

These guys are sopt on with their advice but there's more IMHO.

The three things that will affect the run-out are-

1. Bearings

2. The tolerance of the grind on the spindles internal taper and bearing mating surfaces

3. The Chuck that's mounted to the spindle

As these guys said there isn't an adjustment for runout.

I haven't touched a thing on my drill press since it was new so this is my opinion on my particular machine so take it for what it's worth :)

I've never measured my runout but I can confidently say that it's fairly poor. It's been fairly poor since day one. I would guess that even though it's poor it's probably within manufacturers specs, LOL.

The spindle seems tight as day one and I've attributed the runout to the chuck from day one seeing as there was zero wear on the bearings, castings or spindle when new.

I have been planning on replacing the chuck since it was new and still haven't gotten to it.

I asked some machinist friends about chucks way back then. Basically if you wanna drop big bucks on a keyless chuck go with a Jacobs or Alberect for top of the line. For a budget minded alternative Rohm keyless chucks were recommended. Like I said I still don't have one but eventually I'll go with something like this-

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=240-3043&PMPXNO=4839732&PARTPG=INLMK32

Of course you also need an adapter to connect the chuck's JT33 taper to the spindles MT2 taper-

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT

Unless I had good reason to suspect a problem with the bearings I'd begin with the chuck and see where that got me before tearing into the spindle.

FWIW also I've never broke a bit when using my drill press vice to hold the work. Handheld work just to get that one little ole hole drilled.... Well that's another story as far as broken bit's are concerned. Even with my poor runout I've drilled a bunch of 1/16" holes with solid carbide bits without breaking those fragile teeny things. That is as long as I used the vise ;)

Again this is all just my opinion but if you decide to replace your chuck I'd be interested to hear how it affects your runout.

Take care buddy !

-Josh
 
First thanks to everyone for the info. I will have to dig up my receipt this weekend and see when I bought this DP and see if it is still under warranty!

Josh, now that you mention it I think there has been some run out always with this DP. I am going to have to wait until I have a little more time as I have a bunch of projects underway right now, with spring here and don't have the time right now. I am going to do some more checking but after hearing what has been said. I need to take an internal look see at the bearings and the pocket for the bearing! That thought seriously concerns me!

I have seriously thought about a new chuck for it. I always tighten it at all three key holes in an attempt to get it tightened equally. I am not sure about a key-less chuck for a DP! They are alright for hand held drills but I can see getting them tightened enough for use with larger bits a pain and then getting it loose an equal pain!

They seriously don't give them away either! :what!::31:

http://www1.mscdirect.com/cgi/NNSRI...re=ItemDetail-_-ResultListing-_-SearchResults

Josh, if I do decide to go the way of a new chuck, I will post results!
 
What they all said is what I would check. I work at a machine shop I would go to ebay, msc.com or mrs.com and find you a cheap magbase with 0-1 dial indicator then you can see exaclly how much runout you have and check all your bits when you load them to make sure they are running good. I have one here at the house for my drill press.
 
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