Asiatic Water Buffalo

CAJones

Well-Known Member
As I've not yet used any, I have a couple questions regarding using water buffalo horn for knife scales. I recently had a gentleman inquire about making him a knife. He wants to use pieces of horn from a buffalo he harvested several years ago.
I know stabilized pieces are always best, but does the buffalo horn have to be stabilized?
Most photos of knives I've seen with water buffalo scales, have front and rear bolsters. Does the horn need the added stability of having both front and rear bolsters?

I'll likely pick up a couple sets of scales regardless. Any thoughts or advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Chris
 
Buffalo horn is easy to work but tends to move around -- a lot with temp and humidity changes.
Make sure you have it attached well.


As a bonus, it stinks when you grind it.
 
It will also delaminate if worked too hot. You might want to restrict yourself to working with it with hand tools. Be aware that you will also have to cut out the block or scales from the horn. The tip tends to be solid but curved. How far back from tip is going to depend on the horn. Back farther the horn will be hollow which you can rough cut, steam, and press flat. As Tracy said it will have a tendency to move and return to the natural curve of the horn. Personally, I would try to convince him to go with commercially prepared horn and save his trophy. If he insisted on using the horn that he had I would have to take a pass because of the chance that I might not be able to deliver what he wants without ruining the trophy.


Doug
 
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Yup to everything above.
It's workable on a sloooow grinder with a quick light touch but be really careful on the buffer, the wheel will melt right into it. Did we mention the stink ? Usually happens with the high grit belts running too fast, for me anyway. Use sharp new belts, don't try one that's already ground on wood, it will glaze and burn the horn.

But still...it's doable. You'll automatically know if you're doing the right thing.




Rudy
 
As with any type of "horn" (not antler), it is nothing more then compressed hair. Anything that you've every heard your wife or girlfriend complain about with their hair, happens with horn handle material. It expands and contracts (as Tracy mentioned "moves"), it takes a lot of work to achieve a good finish, it frays and burns easily, and very often gets "split ends". :) And finally, its one of those things that requires repeated attention to keep it at its best.

Personally, I avoid using it on handles if I can help it, and when a client insists on it, there are conditions I place on any warranty concerning the handle material.
 
Thank you all for the advice. I think I will try and talk him into using prepared scales as opposed to using his personal horn.

Chris
 
Yup to everything above.
It's workable on a sloooow grinder with a quick light touch but be really careful on the buffer, the wheel will melt right into it. Did we mention the stink ? Usually happens with the high grit belts running too fast, for me anyway. Use sharp new belts, don't try one that's already ground on wood, it will glaze and burn the horn.

But still...it's doable. You'll automatically know if you're doing the right thing.




Rudy

I say: It shrinks!! That is the main problem, as already visible on this small user!On the rear still ok, but on the front it is already at least half a millimeter...(Sorry Rudy, the nifty knife is above the subject, nice user!)
Do not make scales, You make a hidden tang it turns out ok, but scales......dont do it!...exept You like to see it again for re-finishing the handle.
 
Wrong Mr Rostig.
What you're mistakingly pointing out are the .015 brass liners under the horn. Although I'm sure it will happen in time, as I'm holding this particular knife in hand right now the scales are fine.The customer was warned of the hazards and after delivery this coming week, I am at a loss of controling outside atmospheric conditions where the knife will reside. Very observant of you.

Rudy
 
It might shrink, but it defiantly STINKS! :what!: One thing I don't think anyone mentioned in all of that great advice is for you to use, FRESH SHARP BELTS at the slow speed that was mentioned! No matter if its commercially prepared etc?

Slow speed and FRESH SHARP Belts! The best time I've found to work on bone or horn is when I have a guest or two in my shop that has overstayed their welcome!

Grinding any bone, horn will have them suddenly remembering that they are late for an appointment.:biggrin:
 
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