band saw blades for cutting knife blocks

A

AJH_Knives

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, i have a band saw. I would like to cut my knife blocks into scales. currently i have a 1/4" wide blade on the saw,the cuts are a little wavy. i can up to a 1/2" wide blade on the saw. how many teeth do i need? looking for wisdom on how to cut these knife blocks (stabilized wood) into nice flat blocks.

thanks, aaron
 
I have the same problem. When I'm done trying to cut scales, they look like door stoppers.
 
I try to use the fence, but the blade rotates and cuts crazy. And once it maxes itself out crooked, there is no turning back!

I'm going to try and cut them freehand, that way I can control the blade drift. Then just sand smooth.
 
I bought some 1/2" blades from Amazon for my 62" band saw. They work much better than the smaller blades.

1/4" for curves
1/2" for better straight line cuts.
 
Setting your saw up can be a challenge. Between the blade tension being right. and figuring out the right blade. feed rate for the material. and figuring out a good fence.

For my fence I modified a piece of aluminum angle and I clamp it to the table at the front and back. I place my fence. on the left side of the blade.

I think the biggest thing is getting your guides and blade tension right. followed by learning the right feed rate. Every time I change the blade I "reset" the saw guides. and check the blade with a 123 block to be sure its not only running 90 to the table. But its running parallel to the fence. This helped alot with the blade wanting to walk the cuts. Again that paired with feed rate and a sharp blade and you should be good to go!

I hope you get it dialed in!

God Bless
Randy
 
I haven't worked with stabilized wood yet but was having a similar problem with my hardwoods. I recently solved the problem by getting down and tuning my guides better. I am using a 1946 Craftsman bandsaw I picked up from an estate sale. 2nd owner, can you believe it. Anyway mine has brass guides and set screws. Prior to my tuneup I had a lot of blade wander. I resurfaced the brass guides (round rod 1/4" if memory serves), set the guide depth, then set the guides to the blade (you need to leave a little free play so as not to heat up the blade). After doing this simple procedure I can cut very straight off the fence with no noticeable wander. A good sharp blade is necessary and set your upper guide right above the piece ( I usually set mine 1/4" above the piece). my saw has been cutting straight ever since.
good luck
 
I was cutting some fossil ivory today and thought I should add to this post.. Knowing when to change your blade and using blades like there free will also aid in your success..

Good luck and have fun!
Randy
 
Try using a round fence. A piece about 2" diameter will work good. Basically a piece of wood with a plastic 2" pvc coupling will work in a pinch. Attach the coupling center of the wood. When your blade start to walk it won't matter. You'll just follow the line you have marked. I'll try to get a pic of my set up for you. It works great
 
That would be cool for pics. I'm having such a hard time using my new bandsaw. The blade runs all over. I'm tired of wasting nice wood


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top