Bandsaw nigtmare!!!need some help...please!

McClellan Made Blades

Well-Known Member
Hey Dawgs,
I thought this was going to be a routine changing of the blade, took off the old blade and went to put the other blade on and it came up about a 1/2 inch or so short...so I'm thinking I bought the wrong one, so I checked it, nope it's the right blade length, started looking for other places to make adjustments and found one that is like a fine tuner for the blade length (that I'd never had to touch), adjusted it down to as low as the top pulley would go down, still can't get the blade on and it is at this point that I get the blade about a 1/2 inch to going on, and if it did go on it would be incredibly tight! Another issue I had going on is that I've been having trouble with my hands for a while now, finally went ahead and had to have surgery on my left hand and wrist, (Trigger Finger is a seriously painful problem!) so I was also thinking this was a weakness issues as well. This bandsaw is a 12" Craftsman, the blade length is 89 1/2", the model number is 22400 .

I've always used craftsman blades on it, only because they've worked well, are inexpensive and convenient. I swear if I didn't know any better, I'd say they were made short, but I know me, and in knowing me, I have to take the blame first, thinking I must have done something wrong, but for the life of me I have no idea what I could have done.

If any of you Dawgs out there have experienced anything like this, please send me some advice! I've got to check my paper work, I'm not sure if I have any warranty on it, heck I can't remember when I bought it, for sure. Until then and if I have to fix it myself, some help would be greatly apppreciated!

Thanks Guys, it's much appreciated, Rex
 
Rex. They can be tough to put on. Once on I turn my machine on for a few revolutions and then go to the nob that loosens and tightens the blade. I tighten this as much as I can. I've never had a blade break or react odd to this. I once read what one blade manufacturer wrote that tightening as much as I could was not overdoing it. I have not seen any signs of wear in the wheel hubs.I've used this machine for over thirty years.
 
Rex,
I had a trigger finger operated on about a year ago. Give yourself a month or two ta heal up!

You can have any kind of blade made any length. I have a guy ebay make up my wood Bandsaw blades. 105" 3 Tooth skip. For my Grizzly Polar.
He sells under the name of bjamsn You Can tell him the size and style and he makes em up out of Starrett brand saw blades. Made in the USA.
I use to buy Craftsman, Unfortunately their stuff get's worse every year.

The Starrett work well and the man always has been very helpful with questions.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com/
 
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It doesn't happen often, but there have been a few instances where I actually measured the blade and it was definitely not the length as was labled on the box.

If the blade is within the spec stated on the machine, it's gotta be the machine.
The manufacturers are supposed to provide some leeway for slightly shorter/longer blades. One would think the spec for blade length would be based off of being in the "middle of the window", but not always.
Especially in today's slap-'em-together and send 'em down the line style, we are apt to end up with something different than intended.

If the blade measures what the machine calls for, either the machine is mislabled or you have something preventing full travel.

On one of mine, I knew the blade was right for the machine because I had already used it previously (I had swapped to a finer blade for a different cut).
I completely disassembled the tension mechanism and, lo and behold, the spring had knocked a tiny chip off what the manufacturer called a spring seat. My term for it is cheap, rough casting.
This chip was very tiny; I almost missed it. But it had somehow gotten wedged in the sliding mechanism and prevented the wheel from sliding down all the way.

1. Verify length of blade that was on the saw. You know this length works.
2. Verify length of replacement blade. Keep in mind it's possible to have different blade than what box says. Replacement should be very close to the blade that was on the saw.
3. If old blade (that fits) and new blade (that doesn't fit) match in length, check the machine. Could be an easy fix like I described above.

Good Luck, buddy.

Rob
 
I've had blades come in an inch or so, too short for my saw. Like Rob said, it happens. I've since switched to "custom" blade type situation, I do as Lawrence and have them hand welded/brazed.
 
I would guess that you likely have a blade that erroneously made it through the QC Process. If this is the same blade you always buy, it must be short. I'd measure and prove the blade to be flawed and then take it back to get a replacement.
 
Frank, I think I need the bandsaw you have, sounds like a great one! I have had to tighten up the blade on my HF metal cutting bandsaw much like you described in an attempt to keep the blade from jumping off, I've tried many times to adjust it, tune it, whatever, never seemed to help at all! Tightening up and NOT torquing the blade is the best way to keep it on, but even then it will come off. More of a frustrating issue than a problem as I don't cut out too much steel, right now any way. I will when I get into folders more, which is something I really want to do. The main problem I have with that is my hands are huge and the screws are microscopic! I messed around with making one last year until I realized I wasn't having fun, so I put it all up and went back to my hammer! Folders are on the backburner for now, until I feel like I have the paitence to stay calm and make it fun. 1 day I'm gonna make something as nice as yours, Chuck G and C. Robinson!!! .....one day! Thanks for the input, Rex
 
Rex,
I had a trigger finger operated on about a year ago. Give yourself a month or two ta heal up!

You can have any kind of blade made any length. I have a guy ebay make up my wood Bandsaw blades. 105" 3 Tooth skip. For my Grizzly Polar.
He sells under the name of bjamsn You Can tell him the size and style and he makes em up out of Lennox brand saw blades. Made in the USA.
I use to buy Craftsman, Unfortunately their stuff get's worse every year.

The Lennox work well and the man always has been very helpful with questions.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com/

Laurence,
Thanks for the advice on the Trigger finger, but since I had 2 surgery's on the same hand, taking easy is a must....well sorta. I work until I hurt too bad, then I find something else I can do, then go back to my knives, once it gets too bad, I'll stop for a little while or prep some other stuff that is next on my list. I'm an all go no quit kinda guy, probably to a fault. I'm OCD on whatever knife I'm working on, and it's lke it haunts me until I get it finished. Constantly on my mind, trying to come up with something extra, or different, or better, or...you get the idea.

The guy that makes blades you, how much does he charge, and is there a minimum? That might be a way to make it work, whats so crazy is I had just taken an 89 1/2" blade off of it and couldn't even get that one back on. So I'm thinking it's either something I did, or something is out of whack! Thanks Bud, Rex

Thanks for the tips Bro`, Rex
 
It doesn't happen often, but there have been a few instances where I actually measured the blade and it was definitely not the length as was labled on the box.

If the blade is within the spec stated on the machine, it's gotta be the machine.
The manufacturers are supposed to provide some leeway for slightly shorter/longer blades. One would think the spec for blade length would be based off of being in the "middle of the window", but not always.
Especially in today's slap-'em-together and send 'em down the line style, we are apt to end up with something different than intended.

If the blade measures what the machine calls for, either the machine is mislabled or you have something preventing full travel.

On one of mine, I knew the blade was right for the machine because I had already used it previously (I had swapped to a finer blade for a different cut).
I completely disassembled the tension mechanism and, lo and behold, the spring had knocked a tiny chip off what the manufacturer called a spring seat. My term for it is cheap, rough casting.
This chip was very tiny; I almost missed it. But it had somehow gotten wedged in the sliding mechanism and prevented the wheel from sliding down all the way.

1. Verify length of blade that was on the saw. You know this length works.
2. Verify length of replacement blade. Keep in mind it's possible to have different blade than what box says. Replacement should be very close to the blade that was on the saw.
3. If old blade (that fits) and new blade (that doesn't fit) match in length, check the machine. Could be an easy fix like I described above.

Good Luck, buddy.

Rob

Thanks Rob, I'll be checking all of those a soon as I get home! I didn't even think about measuring the blade! Even though I was thinking it was too short! Crazy me, of course at the same time I was thinking it was something I had done, the blocked blade travel would make sense, I'll check it out, Thanks Bro`, REX
 
I would guess that you likely have a blade that erroneously made it through the QC Process. If this is the same blade you always buy, it must be short. I'd measure and prove the blade to be flawed and then take it back to get a replacement.

Thanks Murph! How ya been!? Where are you these days? Still is Arkansas I hope and not in the sand box! Thanks Buddy, REX
BTW, You going to makeit to Batsons? They have a stellar line up this year, if you haven't checked it out, really looking forward to meeting some of these guys in person!
 
Still in Arkansas. Not gonna make it this year. I'm waiting to hear about a possible new job (the interview went AWESOME) now and if I get it I'll be in school. If I don't get it, I'll be too dang broke to pay for the gas to drive down!
 
I think the blade you got is too small. It happens. I'd probably try another blade. Its hard to imagine that your machine would change that much unless you drug it around behinf your truck for a few miles.
Oh...you might want to try shooting with the correct hand....LOL. just kidding.
 
Still in Arkansas. Not gonna make it this year. I'm waiting to hear about a possible new job (the interview went AWESOME) now and if I get it I'll be in school. If I don't get it, I'll be too dang broke to pay for the gas to drive down!

Murph,
I'd say it's better to be broke in Arkansas than rich getting shot at! Hopefully the job will come through for you,
you really DON'T want to see the list of demonstrators... it is awesome as usual! But this year looks to be incredible!
For those that want to see the line up, here is the link to the Alabama Forge Councils pdf for the event, I probably should put the announcement on some other sub forums... yeah, I should say so.

http://www.alaforge.org/files/2012_Batson_Blade2.pdf
If there are any other Dawgs going, let me know so we can meet up, Rex
 
Well, I'm kinda embarrassed but not too proud to admit....

My wife went out this morning and while looking at it realized we had only tried to put it on from the bottom, the way I've always put it on. She tried to put it on from the top and she said it went on easily! So yeah, I'm kinda left a little red faced bout that, but not so much to go out and get to work on it, hopefully she checked to make sure it was in all the rollers correctly and in all the right places, I'm going back to check on it in a few, I hope she did get it on right.

My hand has been a constant pain...literally. Mostly my wrist from the
Carpal Tunnel surgery. The former Trigger Finger has the last 3 fingers on that hand weak which is basically my entire hand, so taking it easy is a must. Fortunately, I forge with my right hand...that's only fortunate until I have to have the same surgery on the right hand which will be worse because I have 2 Trigger fingers on my right hand, that so sucks!!!!

Thanks for the help guys, I'm going to take a look at my bandsaw and check everything out to make sure it's right, also have to make all the adjustments back to where they should be, wish me luck, and THANKS again! Rex
 
Laurence,
Thanks for the advice on the Trigger finger, but since I had 2 surgery's on the same hand, taking easy is a must....well sorta. I work until I hurt too bad, then I find something else I can do, then go back to my knives, once it gets too bad, I'll stop for a little while or prep some other stuff that is next on my list. I'm an all go no quit kinda guy, probably to a fault. I'm OCD on whatever knife I'm working on, and it's lke it haunts me until I get it finished. Constantly on my mind, trying to come up with something extra, or different, or better, or...you get the idea.

The guy that makes blades you, how much does he charge, and is there a minimum? That might be a way to make it work, whats so crazy is I had just taken an 89 1/2" blade off of it and couldn't even get that one back on. So I'm thinking it's either something I did, or something is out of whack! Thanks Bud, Rex

Thanks for the tips Bro`, Rex

The blades are sold by the inch? He is a couple of bucks more than the premade blades. I get 105" one's made up and he use's Starrett blade stock , Has many different tooth patterns in stock.

Laurence

www.rhinoknives.com/
 
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