Contact wheel question

RodneyJ

RodneyJ

Well-Known Member
I have just started trying to get things together for my NWG build. I was thinking about an 8 inch contact wheel. So I started doing some looking and it seems there is more to it than just buying an 8 inch wheel. can some one please explain the different types of material and designs and what applications they are used in.
Thanks and God Bless
Rodney
 
Rodney,
Tracy sells all the parts you'll need for the NWG if you don't know. I'm sure he has all the info you need.
http://www.usaknifemaker.com/

Also you can check this out to understand better what application the wheels have. Basicly a fixed wheel is spun by a shaft (motor) and bearing wheels are spun by the belt.
Keep the durometer hardness at about 80 and above all make sure the wheel is balanced.

http://www.sunray-inc.com/index.php?page=wheels-with-bearings

Good luck,
Rudy
 
Rudy thanks for the links. the durometer hardness is one of my question. I have seen it in raanges from 60 -90 and was curious as to how it affacts the grinding I will go and check out the links.

Thanks AN God Bless
Rodneey
 
Rodney
I agree. T will help you with all you need. BTW if you are going to be hollow grinding, Id go with at least a 10" wheel, not that much of a price difference.

Sean
 
95% (maybe 99%?) of knife makers use a 70duro (A scale) hardness contact wheel. This is the sweet spot for absorbing the belt splice bump and being hard enough to not deform (very much) under pressure. There are a few guys that use a 60duro wheel. The advantage to the slightly softer wheel is you can press harder on the wheel and it will give a little. You can control or move a grind line slightly by deforming the wheel under pressure. You can also stretch a hollow grind by slightly flattening the wheel under pressure. I've sold maybe 4 or 5 out of the hundreds of 70duro's I've sold. Personally, I think an experienced knife maker would benefit shifting over to a 60 duro wheel as they have a better feel and tend to grind by feel more than sight. The 60 duro is better that way. I have tried one myself but have been too lazy to shift over entirely to a 60.

By mistake I bought a 4" 40duro wheel a few years back and have been stocking them ever since. A 40duro wheel is easy to deform under pressure. This soft of a wheel allows you to get into contours (especially on handles) and give you a nice smooth cut that you can't get with a harder wheel. I've never been asked for a harder wheel with the exception of a 100duro. A 100duro is being used by guys as a substitute for a stone wheel in their surface grinder. I don't stock 100 duro's yet but once I figure out how to convert my surface grinder into a belt/wheel version instead of a stone wheel I will carry them. Dave and I have talked more than once about carrying a kit that would fit the popular Harbor Freight (Jet/Grizzly) bench top model. If we can get that done, I'll stock the wheel and kit it takes to convert the grinder.
 
Boss thanks for the clearification I thought I had evey thing figured out untill I pulled up your web site and saw all the different choices. I need to try and sell a few that im working on now and then ill be placing an order. Sean I would like to try hollow grinding as the grinder I am using now limits my grinds to flat or convx. I was thinking the 8" because I see so many using this size but will now have to give a larger will more consideration. what are the pro/cons of larger wheel.
Thanks and God Bless
Rodney
 
RodneyJ said:
Boss thanks for the clearification I thought I had evey thing figured out untill I pulled up your web site and saw all the different choices. I need to try and sell a few that im working on now and then ill be placing an order. Sean I would like to try hollow grinding as the grinder I am using now limits my grinds to flat or convx. I was thinking the 8" because I see so many using this size but will now have to give a larger will more consideration. what are the pro/cons of larger wheel.
Thanks and God Bless
Rodney
Click to expand...

Rodney herewith a table that I think would come in handy.
1" = 25.4mm

Grinding Table.jpg
 
Dear Folks,
I have been doing hollow grinding for years and one thing I know is rubber wheels get harder with age. I bought a 50 duro rubber wheel a few years ago and the extra cushioning was nice for awhile, but now this wheel is as hard as everything else I have. I have not used the new poly wheels yet so I do not know if they get harder with age? With the poly wheels I am pretty sure you have to deal with static problems. Also I think one should use a serrated wheel for rough grinding and a smooth wheel for finishing. Also rubber wheels can get impregnated with stray grit and metal bits, making a good finish hard to achieve. I like to use finishing belts that provide the extra cushioning, instead of the contact wheel.
Let's keep this thread going!
Sincerely,
Clint Sampson
Sampson Knifeworks
 
I found the smooth wheel to be all you need. The one I use almost totaly is a 10" I believe a larger one could be a good thing if you are making straight knives. I only make liner locking folders and would concider a 12" if I would be easy to install. If you are having trouble with static electricity get an aerosol can of the anti static spray for clolthes and give the belt a one or two second spray as it's moving. Frank
 
Your right, If I was only going to have one wheel for hollow grinding it would be a smooth one.
8" wheels seem to be the most popular, but that is what comes with most machines standard, must be an economic thing. I use a 12" wheel, my theory is the less flats you have on a blade the less work you will have. I hope I do not lead anybody astray, my opinions are just food for thought! My shop is full of products I purchased on advice from others that did not work for me, but I figure it is part of the learning process or the dues paid to be a better knife maker. Anybody out there been using a poly wheel for a few years now? Is the durometer staying the same or do they get harder with age? I am looking for a new 12" smooth wheel, any input on bargains?
Sincerely,
Clint Sampson
 
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