Fill in the Crack!

Brad Walker

Well-Known Member
Ok, so I tried the leave-a-bare-spot-near-the-blade technique so there wouldn't be so much squeeze out to clean up off the steel. Obviously, I left too big of a spot. What's the best way to fill in the gap?

gap.jpg
 
There shouldn't be a gap that big to begin with....even leaving a bare spot. So I'd say you didn't use enough clamping pressure (or possibly scale/tang isn't flat).

At this point, you have 3 options.

1. Knock the scales off and re do them. (My personal choice)

2. Leave it and live and learn.

3. Try to fill it. (My last choice. I think filling it will likely make a less than ideal situation worse).
 
There shouldn't be a gap that big to begin with....even leaving a bare spot. So I'd say you didn't use enough clamping pressure (or possibly scale/tang isn't flat).

At this point, you have 3 options.

1. Knock the scales off and re do them. (My personal choice)

2. Leave it and live and learn.

3. Try to fill it. (My last choice. I think filling it will likely make a less than ideal situation worse).
All very good points. Thank you!! I was afraid that I was going to have to take them off. I know it's flat, but I didn't think about the pressure issue. I know there's enough epoxy to hold it. It just looks terrible. It's a skeleton tang and all the holes are filled. I even drill small holes in the scales too. Thanks again!
 
Every time I've had similar gaps and tried to fill them in, I've ended up with a mess. I have one little knife with beautiful Cocobolo scales that I tried to fix like that. It still sits on my bench. I grumble every time I look at it.
 
I vote for, and strongly advise you follow John's #1 answer. Knock it off and redo. I've been in your shoes, and I suspect we all have..... you don't want to "wreck all that work". But here's the rub.... knowing you CAN do it right, and not, will haunt you in one way or another. Making it "right" will not only give you a nicer knife, it will also give you peace of mind. ;)
 
I vote for, and strongly advise you follow John's #1 answer. Knock it off and redo. I've been in your shoes, and I suspect we all have..... you don't want to "wreck all that work". But here's the rub.... knowing you CAN do it right, and not, will haunt you in one way or another. Making it "right" will not only give you a nicer knife, it will also give you peace of mind. ;)
Word
 
I can see form the picture your scale is not flat on the glue side. I had that happen once and I had to beat that scale off and make another. I now thoroughly check all my scales before glue up and I make sure a clamp goes right there for extra measure. I tried filling it with CA glue and it did not work, it just made a mess and more for me to clean up.
 
I had an issue somewhat similar the other day with a hidden tang knife, had to remove the handle and redo it. I ground the blasted thing off, would a heat gun work to release epoxy or is that not enough heat? I was paranoid about ruining my temper so I just hogged it off with a 36 grit belt..... nerve wracking. so I guess what I am asking, what is the best practice to remove a screwed up handle (besides not screwing it up in the first place)
 
Thanks for the advise gentlemen!! I second Jon's question. What's the best way to get it off without damaging the blade or the handsanding?
 
I had an issue somewhat similar the other day with a hidden tang knife, had to remove the handle and redo it. I ground the blasted thing off, would a heat gun work to release epoxy or is that not enough heat? I was paranoid about ruining my temper so I just hogged it off with a 36 grit belt..... nerve wracking. so I guess what I am asking, what is the best practice to remove a screwed up handle (besides not screwing it up in the first place)
Overall, I think you took the best approach. There are so many unknowns when trying to use heat to remove a handle.....that the chances of catastrophic mistake are very real.

I've always found it MUCH easier and simpler to remove scales versus hidden tang "blocks".

In the case of this thread, I'd fist grind the areas with pins/fasteners down with a contact wheel until I was as close to the tang as I dared. Then, using a leather wrap, lock the blade up in a vise, and CAREFULLY use a cold chisel to break off or chip away at the scales until they're off. If a person pays attention, you can actually learn a lot from this type of process..... if the scales "pop" off as a whole....then you might consider how well you're prepping the tang prior to gluing scales on. If you have to "chip" the scales of bit by bit.... then you likely have your gluing prep well figured out. ;) Even in failure....there is always a learning opportunity! :)
 
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You could try submerging the handle in a pot of boiling water. That certainly wouldn't touch the temper of the blade at all and might make the epoxy gummy enough to pop the scales off.

Ed's right, you'll be glad you started over but I promise you.....you won't feel that way until after it's done. But it's the right move.
 
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