Finishing G10

Randy Lucius

Randy Lucius

Well-Known Member
Any way to finish this and make it look decent? Looks horrible now. I wasn't thinking when I used it for bolster material.

G10e.jpg
 
Seen them finish with Super Glue if you want it Shiny smooth? My only concern would be the wood??
 
I bead blast G10, then put a single coat of Tru-oil on it. In this case I would tape off everything else, then blast the bolsters. If you don't have a blast cabinet, then just carefully clean with acetone, being careful to not get any on the other handle materials, the, a single coat of tru-oil...... that means dip your index finger in the tru-oil, wipe it on, give it about 30 seconds, then literally wipe it dry with a paper towel or lint free rag.

Let it dry for at least 2 hours. It will remain "new" looking for the life of the knife! The tru-oil stops G10 or other synthetics from absorbing body, or other oils that make it look dingey and ugly. ;)
 
EdCaffreyMS said:
I bead blast G10, then put a single coat of Tru-oil on it. In this case I would tape off everything else, then blast the bolsters. If you don't have a blast cabinet, then just carefully clean with acetone, being careful to not get any on the other handle materials, the, a single coat of tru-oil...... that means dip your index finger in the tru-oil, wipe it on, give it about 30 seconds, then literally wipe it dry with a paper towel or lint free rag.

Let it dry for at least 2 hours. It will remain "new" looking for the life of the knife! The tru-oil stops G10 or other synthetics from absorbing body, or other oils that make it look dingey and ugly. ;)
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Thanks Ed. I don't have a cabinet but I do have a portable sandblaster and an air compressor. Might run by Horrible Freight and get one of their tabletop models. What type of bead blast material would you recommend?

This is what I'm working on and trying to fix. It's turning out beautifully except for the stupid bolsters.
Buckeye 2e.jpg

Buckeye 1e.jpg
 
I run about a 50/50 mix in my cabinet of 70 grit aluminum oxide (harbor freight sells it) and medium glass beads. (not sure if it's the same thing, but harbor freight also sells "80 grit glass beads" For most jobs like what you're doing, medium or coarse glass beads are a good choice.

The biggest things with a cabinet are having a compressor that can keep up with it, and the "gun" used in the cabinet. My cabinet is this one: https://www.harborfreight.com/abrasive-blast-cabinet-62144.html?_br_psugg_q=blast+cabinet, but I replaced the gun with a better one (can't find a ling to it right now). I prefer blast guns with ceramic or solid carbide nozzles.....anything else wears out very quickly. Of course that depends on how much you use it. ;)
 
Thanks Ed. I greatly appreciate your help!! I'll pick up some supplies and do some experimenting. Maybe I can get this knife into a state that I can live with. Hope you are feeling better and have a great Christmas!!
 
Randy Lucius said:
Thanks Ed. I don't have a cabinet but I do have a portable sandblaster and an air compressor. Might run by Horrible Freight and get one of their tabletop models. What type of bead blast material would you recommend?

This is what I'm working on and trying to fix. It's turning out beautifully except for the stupid bolsters.
View attachment 71158

View attachment 71159
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That's a beautiful knife Randy! I didn't even notice the bolster problem until you mentioned it.
 
Sean Jones said:
That's a beautiful knife Randy! I didn't even notice the bolster problem until you mentioned it.
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Thanks Sean. I did a superglue finish on one side last night and it’s a lot better but I’m still not happy with it. I’m going to follow Ed’s advice and do a bead blast finish on it. Got to get some supplies together.
 
That is pretty. I wish I had a source for wood. I just see something and pay through the teeth. Oh 65 dollars for Scrub Pine Scales . “I’ll take it”
 
That's why I love going to Blade Show in Atlanta. You can see and handle what you're getting. That set of scales used on the above knife was bought there.

So was this. The pictures can't do it justice. It's stunning in person.
wood1.jpg

I have a couple of places on Instagram that I've had very good luck buying from.
 
I learned a long time ago..... never buy handle material sight unseen! It's a recipe for disappointment at best, and being ripped off at worst.

I generally do not buy from any source that represents themselves at "knife" related.....why? To be clear, I am speaking of those sources who deal specifically in "woods" or "handle materials". Why? Simply put, you get nothing but ripped off! I've ranted on it before, but for an example......anyone who is selling Maple burl blocks or scales for $50 or more is simply ripping you off! How can they do it? Because the FIF crowd/those who do not know better will pay it.
I've tried to deal with MANY individuals who sell "handle" materials, and have always been disappointed. The worst are those that you thought you knew, and felt you could trust......and then they screw you over.

All that being said, I seek out larger chunks of a given wood, and cut it myself. Why? Because the majority of those who sell by the block, or by sets of scales cut everything for the most yield, and rarely think about how the end product would look on a knife. I'd much rather have a few choice handles then a whole bunch of so-so ones. ;)
 
Randy........What grit sand paper did you use on the g-10 prior to applying the super glue?

Also...what was your technique for the glue?

thanks.....Jeff
 
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