I have a what used to be a mid sized freon cylinder made into a forge. I applied a re-coat of kast-o-lite since the other refractory was falling off & cracked. My second coating will be plistix so, my question is yesterday I applied the 1st of kastolite, how long do I let it dry before adding the coat of plistix? It does look quite dry inside the forge. And after the plistix application, how long before I turn on the heat to make the coats stick without the bubbling effect? I want to do it right so, I won't have bubbles and cracking. I would appreciate your help on this. Rey
forge re-coating?
- Thread starter Rey
- Start date
EdCaffreyMS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
When applying coatings to the interior of a forge, the longest lasting, most durable results will come when you allow the coating to completely dry PRIOR to firing the forge. Here in Montana where humidity is very low, it takes approx. 5-7 days for a coating to completely dry/cure. You can speed the cure process by hanging no more than a 100 watt light bulb inside the forge.
The "bubbling effect" you mentioned is a result of the coating(s) not being completely dry before firing a forge.....the heat boils the residual moisture and produces the bubbles. Remember that although the coating might look dry, that's just the surface....the coating must be dry ALL THE WAY THROUGH to prevent the bubbles.
The "bubbling effect" you mentioned is a result of the coating(s) not being completely dry before firing a forge.....the heat boils the residual moisture and produces the bubbles. Remember that although the coating might look dry, that's just the surface....the coating must be dry ALL THE WAY THROUGH to prevent the bubbles.