Hidden Guard Pins Showing

CDHumiston

CDHumiston

KNIFE MAKER
So I tried attaching a guard with JB Weld and Nickle Silver pins. The pins looked like I peened them enough so I let everything set up and dry.

Next day I start to grind the guard and I have to take off more metal than I planned to get the look right.

Now the problem is my pins are not smashed nice and flush in the holes. IE they are no longer hidden. Can a still take a whack at them and try to spread them out again?
 
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Chris, sorry to say, those just aren't going to hide. You will have to live with them or grind off the guard and start over.
 
Chris, It looks like there might be some JB Weld between the pin and hole. Your pins and holes have to be absolutly clean before and during the peining process . If you are going to use JB Weld make sure that it doesn't squeeze out into the holes. Make sure that the pins aren't sloppy in the holes and if you are tapering the holes, only do it a very tiny bit.

Jerry
 
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Chris,

Personally, I'd just heat the dang thing up to cook the JB, drive out the pins with a nail or punch and cut some new pins.
 
Chris, Tracey and JD IMO gave you the only three options you have. It sucks when this happens, it's happened to me. I have been lucky enough to get the pins out sometimes but then you have the one you peened to tight and just won't come out. Then you have to grind it off and install a new guard. Good luck.

Larry
 
Well it looks like I either keep this one around and just use it or try and remove the mistake and start over.

Thanks for the advice. Lesson learned, many more to come...At least I'm having fun!
 
I never glue my pins trough the guard. For example if I drill the hole with 3.2mm drill, (which my pinstock thickness is), than I drill with, 3.5 just for a 1mm from the surface. Tha I leave a lot of pin lenght above the guard surface and humer it down unthil it goes allmost flat to the guard. Than I rest.......
Then I get the hummer and smack it again more and more. :D Pins can only be seen if the guard is mirror polished, because there are 2 diferent steels - guard is 304, pin is 308 welding rod.

DSCF4334.jpg

Maybe you can see the two dots that are diferently polished on that one.
 
Yeah, don't glue pins. If you use 1/8th" pinstock, drill an 1/8" hole. It needs to be very snug. Then use a tapered reamer before you peen them. Don't reem them out too much though. I leave no more than 1/8" sticking out each side and I smash them with a 3lb hammer. That way the whole pin expands down the hole, not just the top of the pin.

-John
 
John, have you tried a #30 drill bit for 1/8" pins? It is only .007" bigger, or .0014" all around the pin. You can still taper with the reamer for peening, you easily fill the .0014 with expansion of the pin. This makes the pins much easier to get in and out when you fitting up the bolsters/guard. I also use the same bit for scale holes if pinned. I use a little SGlue to hold the bolster on before I peen it and JB on a guard- but very little. Of course if you solder it (yech) then it dont matter....
 
Hi Chris. This is just a thought, next time use Mosaic Pins and let them show. This is just me thinking outside the box. ED
 
JDB said:
Chris,

Personally, I'd just heat the dang thing up to cook the JB, drive out the pins with a nail or punch and cut some new pins.
Click to expand...

Thats what I would do too.

Always use the same material for the guard and pins. Dont leave any glue in the pin holes.
 
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