garyschuler58@charter.net
New Member
Just wondering what is the preferred method of buying scales. already cut into 3/8" x 1-1/2" x 5-6" or by the block size pieces. Thanks
Knlfe scales
- Thread starter garyschuler58@charter.net
- Start date
Randy Lucius
Well-Known Member
I buy scales and blocks. I prefer 1/4 thick scales. If I buy 3/8 I usually have to thin them down. If I buy blocks and need to cut them into scales I use Fred's method. Works great!
EdCaffreyMS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
Personally, I will not purchase ANY handle material without seeing it first hand, unless I know the seller personally, and fully trust them. Far too many sellers wet down woods in order to make them look better for pictures.....but after wetting, the material needs to dry FOR AT LEAST 6 MONTHS before being used on a knife, and in some cases up to a year is necessary. Trying to put any natural handle material on a knife when it's not completely cured/dried, is asking for trouble later. I won't even go into prices.
My preference is to purchase the largest/biggest blocks/hunks of woods that I can, then cut them myself. I DO NOT purchase any handle materials from knife supply outfits..... unless it's at a show, and I can hold it in my hand and look at in person. I usually buy from the bigger wood importers, who sell by the board foot....which is WAY cheaper, for WAY BETTER materials.
My preference is to purchase the largest/biggest blocks/hunks of woods that I can, then cut them myself. I DO NOT purchase any handle materials from knife supply outfits..... unless it's at a show, and I can hold it in my hand and look at in person. I usually buy from the bigger wood importers, who sell by the board foot....which is WAY cheaper, for WAY BETTER materials.
Redbaird
Well-Known Member
For the first knives I made, I spent $120 bucks on knife scales from Jantz which gave me handles for 8 knives. Then went to a custom hardwood lumber store and hand picked $100 worth of kiln dried Zebra wood, Purple heard, Mahogany and Maple. If my math is correct, I have enough wood for 120 knives. Even more since I can cut them out as small as I need and not waste 1/3 of the block. I couldn't see any difference in the end quality.
izafireman
Well-Known Member
I am the same as Ed. It is rarely I will buy wood from someone else. I tend to go to the wood yard and choose my own wood especially burls.
If they are dry I will then cook them and then stabilise them myself, this way I know the complete history of that piece of wood. If there are voids in the wood I will also cast it in resin and being able to stabilise and cast is a huge advantage as you can get some amazing blocks from what you might think fit for the fire.
If they are dry I will then cook them and then stabilise them myself, this way I know the complete history of that piece of wood. If there are voids in the wood I will also cast it in resin and being able to stabilise and cast is a huge advantage as you can get some amazing blocks from what you might think fit for the fire.
TimGinMN
Well-Known Member
Do you think double-back tape is sticky enough to do this safely instead of gluing?
Randy Lucius
Well-Known Member
I think with the tape you could possibly get some flexing that could cause the saw to bind. Fred’s method works so well I wouldn’t do it any other way. Why would you use tape? Save some time?
TimGinMN
Well-Known Member
Yeah you're probably right. Yes, was thinking to save time.