Logo stamp

Need some advise. I am looking at a logo stamp for my knives and, found two types, #1 stamp with a hammer type and, #2 use a arbor press type. Has anyone used either and which is the better of the two? also curious about manufacture and who do yall recommended to buy one from.
 
The stamp I use is the hammer type, which I believe is the same you would use in an arbor press. I only use stainless steel so I don't do any hot stamping. I can tell you this, if you stamp just by hand you will get a shadow stamp because it will bounce when you strike it. I'm not sure how to adapt them to an arbor press but I have a stamp holder "block" that works great. if you'd like I can post pictures of it tomorrow.
 
You can use any stamp in an arbor press. The stamp will bounce, as mentioned with a hammer. I bought a stamp from Everstamp and use a cheap harbor freight arbor press to stamp my blades. Buying that expensive stamp holder is a waste of money. And for me, building a holder for my stamp and permanently attaching it to my arbor press is a waste of my time and a perfectly good arbor press.

Here's exactly how I do it:

Here's a picture of the press. It costs about $30 I think. It's bolted to the bench and there is a piece of 1/4" mild steel plate just setting on the base of the press.

Stamping1.jpg


Here's the blade set on the base ready to place my stamp. It has a layer of masking tape to protect the ricasso from scratches on both sides. The tape also helps keep the stamp from slipping.

Stamping2.jpg


Now I have positioned my stamp where I want it and bring the press arm forward so the weight of the ram holds the stamp in place. I check quick to make sure the stamp is straight up and down front to back and side to side.

Stamping3.jpg


Stamping4.jpg


Lastly I take the press arm handle and apply some pressure to the stamp so nothing moves or bounces then I give the ram a good rap with the hammer to ensure a good deep stamp. And done. No bouncing, no double stamp and no hassle.

Stamping5.jpg


The whole process takes about 30 seconds total. This is just how I do it. I'm only trying to demonstrate that you can stamp without buying that expensive holder or doing a lot of work to modify an existing press.

My stamps come out exactly where I want them on the blade and perfect every time. I stamp my blades cold but they are annealed and dead soft when I do it. I always thermal cycle after I stamp and before quenching.

Here's a good pic of the final result.

 
I recommend a Henry Evers made stamp. Just be sure to use it on annealed steel. I ruined my first one on a hardened stainless blade. They are around $150 but last forever.
I use a hydraulic press with mine but use stencils most of the time to make my blades.
 
cmc, here is the stamp holder I use. I had this made for me before I had a milling machine but you can see there's not much to it. I wish it was a little wider now but it has served me well for over twenty years. this thing holds the stamp perfectly, you can whack it, pull the stamp look at your mark and put it back in and whack it again if you want with no movement at all. like Bruce, I recommend the Henry Evers stamp, I've been using the same one over twenty years.
anyways, here's some pics. the one pic shows a heat treated knife in it, I only put that in there to show how it holds the blade.




 
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