OK.... I'm not here to rain on the parade...... BUT......When I saw this pic, the red lights went off, and the red flag went up!! IS THE FORGE SITTING ON TOP OF THIS CART?? If so, this is A VERY BAD SITUATION.First off today I cut the radius's on the front of the forge for the firebrick door...
And as I found out this morning the other propane hose I had ordered wouldn't be delivered until Apr 1 or maybe Apr 8, I canceled that order and went ahead and hooked up the SS gas line the hard way. Could have been worse, hopefully I won't be taking it off for a long time....
Then I built the rack for my tongs....
Tomorrow I hope to build a similar looking rack for my hardy tools (with no wood) though I'm not really sure yet where it's going to be mounted.
Also my rear forge plug kao wool is pretty dry from rigidizing so I will do the refractory on it. Still noodling on how to mount it.
I found a 20% off coupon online good through this weekend for Harbor Freight and I need to buy their 2 ton shop crane/hoist/cherry picker. I'm going to need it to lift my treadle hammer so I can bolt it down. Time to brave the corona virus again!
I think I figured out what I'm going to do with my TC stick out issue. I ordered one like Kenh's, I'll have to shorten the TC tube but that shouldn't be a big deal.
This is pure gold!But I would much rather be talking TO YOU, than ABOUT YOU.
I've tried to consider which was more dangerous a totally enclosed unit with no exposed lines or a propane line running across the floor? If my forge was in a fixed location then I could hard pipe the propane line.As someone that works in the natural-propane gas industry, I have to agree with Ed. that's a pretty scary looking set up you have there with those tanks right below the forge.
I see a lot of pictures of peoples set ups and am amazed we don't hear of more accidents. personally I hate working on propane systems, it's very unforgiving, and unlike natural gas, when it leaks it settles to the lowest spot on the room and pools up.
As for your tanks leaking, remember when you turn them off, your manifold before the regulator is holding line pressure. you need to open the reg to bleed off all the pressure in the system.
This is a great idea and would be easily accomplished with a cheap modified hand truck. Shop space being what it is (or isn't in my case) I'm not sure of the best way. I can clear a space under some shelves about 6' away and then deal with the exposed propane line, or I could conceivably (painful) put them outside by the air conditioner and still deal with an exposed propane line. Of course in any case I'm still dealing with an exposed propane line! I suspect outside the tanks would heat up more from the sun than from under the forge cart. That could be tested. As my forge cart sits (after buttoning it up) I'm only dealing with an exposed electrical cord as I suspect all blown forges do to some extent?If you have room to do it, you could build another cart with wheels to hold the tanks and connect them to the forge with a quick connect hose.
Your soapy water test is on the tank valve itself, with nothing connected to tank, you've got tank valve closed and there's no bubbles detected with soapy water? I watched the leak video again, why are you turning the regulator down so it shows zero PSIG? I suspect even with your procedure of turning off and bleeding down you've got residual propane in regulator/manifold. Try not turning off the regulator, after all a regulator is NOT a ON/OFF valve. Leave regulator set where it's at. Bet you won't see any pressure build up on gauge then with tanks turned off.I tried it with 5 different propane tanks and they all exhibit the same behavior on the gauge and none of them fail a soapy water leak test.
Your soapy water test is on the tank valve itself, with nothing connected to tank, you've got tank valve closed and there's no bubbles detected with soapy water? I watched the leak video again, why are you turning the regulator down so it shows zero PSIG? I suspect even with your procedure of turning off and bleeding down you've got residual propane in regulator/manifold. Try not turning off the regulator, after all a regulator is NOT a ON/OFF valve. Leave regulator set where it's at. Bet you won't see any pressure build up on gauge then with tanks turned off.
Joe, you've tested temperature of tank area after forge is up to temperature and find the tank area isn't all that hot. BUT, after the forge has been running for an hour or two a LOT more heat is going to build up in tank area. My feeling is anytime a propane tank gets hot enough I can't comfortably hold my hand on it, it's too hot. I REALLY like the idea of using a cheap hand truck, and remember the propane hose that's laying across the floor is well away from any hot slag or metal that might be falling. It doesn't take but just a moment to connect that swivel to the forge, or even a quick connect fitting is used by many folks.Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072JCWJ9D/
For whatever reason speed control isn't working at all no more, if I try to use variable speed the blower shuts down! The blower is running at top speed with the damper fully closed.I downloaded all those videos and watched them. From what I'm seeing you've got the speed control set as high as it will go, just before it clicks OFF?.
So again the damper is already fully closed, if I close the needle valve the temp goes down. I have very little to no dragon breath.With the pressure set at 4 psig, needle valve wide open, and the blower damper fully open it burns nicely, then closing the damper the temperature increases? Good, now close the needle valve some. How much dragon breath (flame) do you have coming out of front of forge?
Yes the temp drops.In video #3 if with pressure at 4psig it sounds like the forge is burning evenly, no sputtering? What if you open the blower damper a bit, does it still sound good? what happens to temp? Are you saying it will drop even more?
It's fairly bright in my shop and I don't see much if any dragon's breath.Too much propane is a rich mixture and usually will result in flame from from forge - and MUCH easier seen in heavy shade or at night. Can be very hard to see in bright sunlight.
Agreed, I have no way f knowing how much the needle valve flows when wide open. Correct on the needle valve location, right after the blower and right before the elbow, on a 1/4" nipple.Another variable is the needle valve, just how much does it flow when wide open? My needle valve might be flowing as much 1/2 open as your valve is fully open thus could need different pressures. You needle valve is located right on the blower pipe screwed into the 1/4" nipple into pipe?
I can try that!I think I'd rather see higher PSIG and the needle valve closed some to provide more of an orifice effect causing the propane to go into the air stream at higher velocity to improve mixing some.
Sent you an email
I wasn't sure, it sorta looked like the blower was still plugged into the speed controller, but of course I can't see to tell. The blower is plugged direct into an electrical outlet. Good deal. Looking forward to report on how it works with higher pressure.For whatever reason speed control isn't working at all no more, if I try to use variable speed the blower shuts down! The blower is running at top speed with the damper fully closed.
Yes it is still plugged into the speed controller, but the variable side of the speed controller isn't working at all but the normal 'ON' side still works fine. The variable control seemed to work just fine when I first hooked it up but no more for whatever reason. I ordered a new speed controller from McMaster Carr.I wasn't sure, it sorta looked like the blower was still plugged into the speed controller, but of course I can't see to tell. The blower is plugged direct into an electrical outlet. Good deal. Looking forward to report on how it works with higher pressure.
I expected you'd already covered the other points I raised, but didn't want to "ass-u-me" anything.
Hang in there my Friend - it's going to work out.