New Prototype...The "Wreck Knife"

[EdCaffreyMS]

A couple of months ago I had a visit from a local horseman. He was asking if I would be willing to develop a knife to be used primarily for quickly cutting lead ropes, lassos, and similar ropes used to tie or "work" horses and livestock with.

In this part of the world, whenever somebody has an incident with horses or other livestock, it's commonly referred to as a "wreck".

Here are some pics of a couple of Prototypes I finished up today:

"Wreck Knife" Prototype #1: 3" blade, with variable serrations for 2/3 of the blade length. Flat ground with convex edge. On this one I decided to leave the point blunt, which I hope will lessen the chances of cutting up a horse if the need arises to cut a saddle girth (strap).
I have to give credit to my wife Cindy....she walked into the shop when I was testing both knives, and I made the statement about having to put handles on them tomorrow. She suggested that I cord wrap them....and I really like it.

"Wreck Knife" Prototype #2: Same blade length (3"), but with a slimmer profile, and sharp point, The biggest difference is the serrations...the are small, with somewhat flatter points, and set up in a 2 small, 1 large configuration.

I've tested them on nylon and cotton "lead" ropes, and both go through cleanly with tension on the ropes....now to turn them over to the individual for more testing, and see which he likes best. The toughest part about this type of knife is getting the serrations "right". I spent the better part of a day, trying different combinations and sizes of serrations before I settled on these two.

On a side note, I stumbled upon a method of etching my name that I really like! Prior to doing any final finishing on the blade, I etched both on the highest setting on my "Personalizer Plus" Holding the etching pad on the stencil for a count of ten, then lifting it for a count of 5. I repeated this for a total of 10 cycles, which "burned" the mark in deeply. I then switched to the "mark" setting on the etcher, and did the same thing for 10 cycles. When I peeled off the stencil, there was a lot of "black" around the mark.....but after a light hand sanding with 600 grit, and a quickly "once over" on a super fine Scotchbrite belt, the marks came out great! Here I've been stumbling around with this etcher for over a year now.....and finally figured out how to make it work the way I want! :101

 

[cdent]

Hey Ed, reminds me a bit of an open ocean deck hand knife. If someone gets tangled up in rope or has a few wraps of heavy leader around a hand under tension, you can slip the blunt end against skin and cut yourself free. I think this is a good time for serrations. They'll snag a line and hold the knife in the cut until the line is severed. Smooth may do a partial cut and you have to go back in and try again. I assume those are stainless since you're etching (?), maybe take one up by Jim with one of your handy cross draw kydex sheaths.

Thanks for showing them, Craig

 

[Darrin Sanders]

Both are good lookin blades. Thanks for the tip on etching, that looks good also. Having ridden a few horses in my day and also spending years in the marine industry in the gulf of mexico I believe proto #1 to be about perfect for either application. The only thing I would change would be to put some type of scale on for marine use. The paracord would just hold too much salt water in that environment. What type of steel are they? Thanks for sharing.

 

[Pieter]

Looking good Ed also like the shape of the first one.

 

[Bgbdwolf]

Great design on prototype #1 leaving a blunt point. You don't have to worry about stabbing yourself or your horse. Having been in some wrecks myself, that knife would be handy to have.

 

[maxcutter03]

Those are some winners Ed!!!!

 

[harm]

those look like the business.
let us know the results of the "beta testing".

 

[Lagrange]

Nice.