Optimum thickness for a folder????

C Craft

C Craft

Well-Known Member
I am not sure if this is the right forum but here goes. I have been working on a line of friction folders. Since the material I had on hand is

1/8" TH X 1 1/2" Wide 1080, that is what I started working out the pattern in! Then it hit me, this is really too thick for a folder. So I am looking at

ordering some new 1080 in thinner thickness. So this is where the question arises!

What do you consider the optimum thickness for folder material and why do you like to use it????
 
I think the thickness will depend on what you intend the knife to be used for. I happen to like slip joints and I use .093 (3/32) for them. I may try some .0625 in the future to lighten them up a bit.

Erik
 
These folders are friction folders and I intend them to be for use from everything to an EDC or game cleaner! That is why I decided that the 1/8" is too thick. While not too bad for a hunting knife, if I can go thinner I loose some of the weight but, I don't want to compromise strength!

In the past I used some steel from a two man saw. It was about right at .075 which is real close to 5/64" @.0781. I can see that with a folder that is intended for use as a hunting knife, possibly needing something slightly heavier. I was thinking of something like.0938 or 3/32" which is slightly better than halfway between the 1/16" and 1/8".

I am getting ready to order some new steel so I am looking at the thickness before I sit down and actually order. I am thinking I want to order some
1/16" -.0625
3/32" - .0938

That is why I decided to pose this question to get some feedback from others who build folders, as to what they use and why, before I make my order!
 
Last edited:
Personally, my "gents" folders run between .100"-.130", and my flippers are around .170". Take a moment to think about all the heartaches that using super thin steel can cause......generally you're going to have to change the sequence of how you do things....at the very least :)
 
EdCaffreyMS said:
Personally, my "gents" folders run between .100"-.130", and my flippers are around .170". Take a moment to think about all the heartaches that using super thin steel can cause......generally you're going to have to change the sequence of how you do things....at the very least :smile:
Click to expand...

Ed, I am an old carpenter by trade so I have to do the conversion so I can put it into parts of an inch to get my head around the dimension. :biggrin: You ought to see what metric does to this old head! :what!: We typically did not get into those kind of tolorances when framing, we were mostly concerned about 1/8"th.
I was always taught when doing trim you strive for two kinds of fit but we measured that by this scale, water tight fits and kerosene tight fits. LOL I was primarlily looking at saving weight when I started looking into steel less than 1/8"th.

.100 is just shy of 7/64th"
.170 being almost 11/64th"
.130 being slightly better than 1/8th"
Soooooooooo, now I got that in my head.

Are you saying that if I stay at or above .100 I won't have to worry about so much problems, if not where do you figure that cut-off point to be with thinner steel.



Maybe I need to lay this scenario out this way.

I will be using 1080 steel as my blade steel, and using Parks 50 as a quenchant. Using this criteria what is you recommendation for thickness??

Before someone brings up that 1080 is not what is commonly used in folders, I am familiar with 1080, and right now while I am still getting into folders these first ones are friction folders and primarily something that will be considered more of a primitive knife. That is why I have chosen 1080 as what I want to build these first ones out of!!


Is there any special tempering instructions I need to consider using the 1080 as my blade steel in the 1/8th" or under??
 
Last edited:
I use 3/32" for my folders. My knives range from about 2" up to 3". For the smaller blades, I may surface grind them down a bit to lighten them up, but 3/32" is the starting point.
 
BrandantR said:
I use 3/32" for my folders. My knives range from about 2" up to 3". For the smaller blades, I may surface grind them down a bit to lighten them up, but 3/32" is the starting point.
Click to expand...

BrandantR, What type of steel are you using on your folders and have you got any advice for using 3/32" steel as your blade???

My thinking here is the type of steel whether it be 1080 or another, may have an influence on blades thickness.

I remember seeing a thread recently where the guy was asking about if he could save a blade, that the cutting edge had warped on during HT. He said he had cut the edge down to thin before he HTed as the spine was straight but the edge had warped. I know that is a common problem, especially with newer makers (getting an edge to thin, less than a dimes thickness)! However it can also be a problem that arises when steel A Vs using steel B.

So that has put me to thinking about whether blade steel could cause the same type of problems once you get into the thinner steels!

I hope I am getting across what I am rambling about. In other words for example, say 1080 might be good down to 1/8th" but under that thickness you will have warping problems. Since I have plans of using 1080 on these folders, I need to know how thin can I go before I start running into problems and if I need to do anything special if I feel I just got to go thinner for weight or other reasons!

The folders I am about to embark on going to be a primitive folder but I want to do their construction in a way that will lay the ground work for a classy folder down the line. In other words these primitive folders will not have an outward/obvious construction that shows they are not from that time period, that I am trying to emulate. How ever they will function smooth like a modern folder and have stops built into their construction that you can't see without close examination.

If I can pull this off they will look like a primitive folder but the function will be smooth and more like that of a modern folder. That is where I hope to do my learning for a later folder that is more modern!

Edit:
I was just looking at the NJ Steel Baron site and since I will be doing these as reduction knives and I need to re-order some steel I may be switching up to 1084. His 1080 is in square material and I do not at this time intend to forge. So any advice with 1084 would be appreciated. From what I know it not much different from handling 1080, but I may be misinformed. So please feel free to educate me on 1084 and thickness pitfalls and HT or other problems with 1/8" thick material or less!
 
Last edited:
I don't think you'll find warping much of an issue with the short blades used in a folder - of course, that depends on how long you make the blade:)

While some steels are a tad more warp prone than other steels, I just can't imagine an issue with anything less than 4", even down to .080".

Ken H>
 
I think you are asking the right questions, C Craft. It's not only the thickness of the blades, but also the type of steel used. I have never used 1080 or 1084. Most all of my folders have been made from 440C and a couple out of stainless Damascus. I haven't had any warping problems with my blades at all, but that might be due to my choice of blade steel. I think that you might need to worry more about warping with 1080 or 1084 since they are a quick oil quench steel where 440C is air quench. Although I do most of my hollow grinding before I heat treat, you may consider doing most of your grinding after HT to avoid a thin edge that may warp. I hope someone else with personal experience with 1080 can chime in and give you some specific direction with your chosen steel. But, if I were in your shoes, I'd save most of the grinding work until after HT. I suggest you simply give it a try and see what happens. Good luck with your new adventure.
 
Guys I appreciate the input.
I know this is getting somewhat confusing as I started talking about 1080. However I am needing to restock some steel and have been wanting to give the NJ Steel Baron a try. After looking at his site, he only carries 1080 in square material, (basically forge material)!

These folders will be done as a reduction style blade, therefore my new choice of steel will be 1084. :what!::34:please don't throw something at me.

I know 1084 is similar to to 1080 but that is about all I know about it. So anyone that uses 1084 as their steel of choice, whether it is folders or something else I would appreciate any info you can share. I am also going to be using a fast quench, Parks50.

I know sometimes you got to throw something against the wall and see what sticks and sooooooooooooo maybe I am over thinking this but, I have been know for doing that before! :biggrin:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top