Question about Buckeye Burl...

McClellan Made Blades

McClellan Made Blades

Well-Known Member
Hey Dawgs,
I've got some Buckeye Burl that is beautiful, but it's really lite. I was wondering if it had to be stabilized. Is it highly recommended, not necessary, or absolutely a must? Thanks Dawgs! Rex
 
Yeah it definitely should be stabilized. Buckeye burl is really pretty, but awful weak and unstable. Once stabilized, it makes really nice-looking handles that are durable. Probably not as durable as micarta, G10, etc, but still good for a user knife.

The good news is, it's not super expensive to have it stabilized, it can also be dyed in almost any color you want, and there's lots of reputable folks who can do it for you. Some of them have their own forums right here. Check 'em out for quotes.
 
james terrio said:
Yeah it definitely should be stabilized. Buckeye burl is really pretty, but awful weak and unstable. Once stabilized, it makes really nice-looking handles that are durable. Probably not as durable as micarta, G10, etc, but still good for a user knife.

The good news is, it's not super expensive to have it stabilized, it can also be dyed in almost any color you want, and there's lots of reputable folks who can do it for you. Some of them have their own forums right here. Check 'em out for quotes.
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mike miller Stabilize it.\

Mike and James,
Thanks for the input, I had some curly maple stabilized by Ankrom Exotics and Pat did a wonderful job. Curly maple is petty absorbent, stabilized and dyed and shipped 10 blocks for 52 bucks! I thought that was pretty good, not to mention the fact that he was so fast the blocks were ready to be shipped before I was ready to pay for them. I left the blocks with him at Blade, and he was ready to ship them back the week after the show. I felt like that was pretty dog gone fast! I'll be contacting him, and getting a quote on that and a couple of burl blocks that I want stabilized. Thanks guys, Rex
 
SBuzek said:
IMO a must.Just to light and soft if not stabilized
Stan
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Thanks Stan,
With the way it feels I was pretty sure it would need to be stabilized. I've been holding onto these blocks for about a year, in a box kept warm like I was told, the color this stuff turned, is an awesome bluish gray, what will stabilizing do to the color? I know that stabilizing can tune down the look of maple burl, will it do that to Buckeye burl? Thanks Stan, what would a coat of CA do? I know that's not that same as stabilizing but it can give it a harder exterior. Just a thought. Thanks, Buddy, Rex
 
Rex
I use Wssi for most all my stabilizing and have had very little in the way of color change.
I don't like CA finishes,they will chip,get splotchy,and are only on the surface,plus they are a pain to do,If i'm not going to stabilize a piece of softer wood (not many) I soak them in Watco Danish oil for a couple of days and then let them dry for a coulpe of weeks.
Hope this helps,did I mention I don't like CA finishes:D
Stan
 
SBuzek said:
Rex
I use Wssi for most all my stabilizing and have had very little in the way of color change.
I don't like CA finishes,they will chip,get splotchy,and are only on the surface,plus they are a pain to do,If i'm not going to stabilize a piece of softer wood (not many) I soak them in Watco Danish oil for a couple of days and then let them dry for a coulpe of weeks.
Hope this helps,did I mention I don't like CA finishes:D
Stan
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I've heard a lot of good things about WSSI, but I took a chance with Pat at Ankrom Exotics, when I met him at Blade, well it's not really taking a chance when you're looking at all the quality work displayed right in front of you. The work he did for me on the curly maple turned out beautifully, the price was more than reasonable and the turn around time was great, so I know what to expect from Pat, I also understand that Buckeye will be pretty absorbent, so I expect the price will reflect accordingly. I had the Curly Maple dyed, and stabilized. Pat doesn't have an extra charge for dyeing, I'm sure it raises the cost, but for my buckeye, I won't have it dyed, it's pretty like it is. And I kinda agree with you on the C.A., I've only seen a couple of handles done in C.A., and while they where pretty good looking they had a plastic look to them, I didn't quite care for. I prefer an oiled finish to most of mine, provided the wood is stable enough, without stabilizing. Thanks Stan, Rex
 
Hey Rex,
Not to stir the pot....but theres a few lists out there that recommend which woods should be stabilized and which are ok "au natural". Sometimes there is a difference of opinion on what needs it and what doesn't. I tend to stick to the side of stabilize most stuff unless you know for sure it doesnt need it.

I would stabilize all burls, due to grain structure for example. However figured / regular walnut is one of those "on the fence". Some folks think its fine with some BLO etc, and others think it needs to be stabilized.

Sometimes what one person thinks is stabilized is not what others think it is. Thats a whole different debate, but IMO you want the acrylic to have penetrated all the way thru your wood block. Lots of times the wood will double in weight.....things like spalted maple will do that.

Larry
 
Shaughnessy said:
Hey Rex,
Not to stir the pot....but theres a few lists out there that recommend which woods should be stabilized and which are ok "au natural". Sometimes there is a difference of opinion on what needs it and what doesn't. I tend to stick to the side of stabilize most stuff unless you know for sure it doesnt need it.

I would stabilize all burls, due to grain structure for example. However figured / regular walnut is one of those "on the fence". Some folks think its fine with some BLO etc, and others think it needs to be stabilized.

Sometimes what one person thinks is stabilized is not what others think it is. Thats a whole different debate, but IMO you want the acrylic to have penetrated all the way thru your wood block. Lots of times the wood will double in weight.....things like spalted maple will do that.

Larry
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Larry,
You're not stirring a pot, you're providing good information and great points! I would agree with most of that, as I never have walnut stabilized, I have had curly maple stabilized, and I have seen it used with an oil finish. Is it wrong? I don't think so , as long as it has shrunken all it can, it should be fine, it's a very stable wood. And with and oil finish like Tung oil, it should be wonderful, I think the future owner of that knife should be aware that it should have a coat added to it every once and a while. I offer all of my customers free sharpening on every knife I sell, and when I get the ones that have walnut on them, I automatically re-oil the handle and re-apply Renaissance Wax to the blade, as I only use high carbon steel. Those are a couple of the little things that I do for my customers that make them very happy, when they get it back it looks brand new, as I've been told so, many times! Happy customers make me happy! The biggest thing I can see about stabilizing is that the wood will not shrink, impervious to any stains, oils, and probably acids, not sure about that last one, probably good against a light acid. But not anything too harsh, I wouldn't want to test it to find out! Thanks Larry, very good points, Rex
 
WSSI has always done me great service. I also buy stabilized burl from Gene Martin and am more than happy doing business with him. I don't know for sure, but he may stabilize the wood himself. As many of you probably know, Gene is a fine knife maker, too.
 
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