Satin finnish

Frank......

I found this about using Mobile 1, this Morning, went and read all the post. So I went and got a quart from "Advance Auto Parts" to try this Morning. Mobil 1 5W-30...It WORKS Just Like you Said!!.....Will be what I use from now on!! ...Thanks so much for Sharing!!;)

Frankallen
 
Frank Niro said:
Well, I will give an easy way to do this, though I'll bet some will say "well I tried this or that" and others will not even concider it. Go buy a quart or whatever of Mobil 1. The grade won't matter. Place this on the blade and you can sand back and forth and get an even finish without fish hooks or streaks. Even 220 looks pretty darn good, but go where you want. Too simple for what can be at times such an aggravating job. Try it you will like the results if you use the Mobil 1. Frank
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip!
Also can you give me another pointer?
At what grit do you take it to on the grinder, and from there at what grit do you start the Mobil 1 satin hand finish?

Thanks
 
Take it as fine as you can get it on the grinder so you have to do as little hand sanding as possible. I go to 400, then start my hand sanding back at 220. 320 would be a fine place to start too, but I like 220 because it evens out any bumps more quickly and easily, and takes out those annoying plunge line scratches faster.

I got some Mobil 1 a while back because of this thread, and I like it ok. It's too thick for my taste (probably because I'd been used to WD 40). I felt like it gummed things up, though I do like the way it floats particles. My solution? I add Mobil 1 and then give it a squirt of WD40! Now I have the best of both worlds: it's thinner AND floats the grit!
 
I've been using the Mobil 1 and I like it a lot. Let me also add the Tracy sells some sandpaper on USA Knifemaker that is made by Norton and this stuff is the BEST! It cuts and cuts and cuts. I got some in 220 and 400 grit, I wish he had it in 600 too. The paper you use is really important too.
-John
 
I will try the WD-40 with the Mobile 1 next time . I go down to that 16 Trisact on my grindind but I also back up to 220 when starting the hand sanding. Frank
 
I have recently switched from using water with wet dry sandpaper to using Simple Green mixed 4 to 1 with water, this cut about 15 to 20 min. off of a 1 hr. job. I used to use the same cutting oil that I used while milling or drilling but water seems to cut faster and my Simple Green mixture cuts even faster than water.
 
I will definitely get some Mobil 1 and try it. Like most, I'm always looking for ways to save time, money and wear-and-tear on the ol' elbows. :)
 
I've been sanding a couple of blades the last couple of days and for whatever reason (lazyness??) I was just using dry paper with no lubricant at all. It was taking me forever to get the grinder scratches out and I was burning through tons of paper, so I nudged myself to dig out my bottle of Mobil 1 and it worked extremely well. I went from feeling like I was using the back side of the paper to SuperSandpaper!

This was at 220x on O-1 steel by the way...fresh off the grinder and post HT.
 
hello thereThanks Frank!:yea!
I always heard that water cuts and oil polishes, and when sharpening W certain things, that does seem to be true; but now I really have to wonder if that's just like the whole feed a fever & starve a cold thing; just a interchangeable wives tale!
Next time I Hand finish a blade I'm gonna try this Mobile 1 thing!
:duh:
 
Just wanted to add-

As far as what mobil one oil to use..

The lower the first number in the spec, the thinner the oil will be. For those of you complaining about the oil being to thick, maybe try going down a few grades. For instance, you will see a major difference in 20w-50 as opposed to 0w-30. 0w oil is almost like water it is so thin. I won't be WD-40 thin, but you will be able to tell a difference between it and the thicker grades. I have not tried this yet, but I will be trying to find some 0w, or 5w. I don't know if mobil one goes down to 0w in full synthetic, but I know they have 5w because that's what I run in my car.

I would also go with the regular "mobil 1 full synthetic". The other brands of mobil oil , like the 5000 mentioned earlier may be a blend of synthetics and conventional oil. I can't remember which one it is, but I know mobil offers one. Castol syntec blend would be another example of a blend oil. I don't know what difference it would make, but I think the full synthetic would be your best bet for this use.
 
What mess? You don't have to pour it on, a few drops is all you need. Wipe off with a paper towel when it gets black (loaded with swarf) and reapply.

What cost? I've done 4 blades and used maybe 5 capfuls. I'm pretty certain I spent more on the sodas I sipped while doing them, than on the actual amount of Mobil 1 I used. I'm definitely sure the time saved made up for that.
 
By cost, I meant the mess, not the $$$

A quart of oil is cheap, and will go far.

Maybe I used too much, I'll try again today, I just didn't like getting everything oily.
Me, my block, my vise, etc...
 
Hope I didn't sound snotty, I sure didn't mean to. Use a little less and see if you like it. It really doesn't take much. It's a lot like honing oil on a whetstone, you only need enough to keep the swarf from grinding back into the blade and/or clogging up the stone/sandpaper etc..

The oil doesn't evaporate or clean up as easily as water or water-based stuff like Simple Green or Windex, that's certainly true. I don't mind a little oil on my vise and other tools, but you're right that it could be a pain on other surfaces.
 
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