Slipjoint Questions

P

Plas62

Well-Known Member
I don't post a lot over here on Knifedogs, but have done a lot of lurking and have admired the really excellent work of the folder makers who post on this forum.

Over the last few years I've repaired and customized several slipjoints and have decide to take the plunge and am getting ready to start on building my first slipjoint from scratch and have a few questions.

Before I get to my questions a little background on my project.

I plan on making a single blade jack knife with a brass locking liner and am using a Camillus TL29 for my pattern. See pic below of a TL-29 I customized, I plan on it looking similar to this when finished. I will use NS bolsters and Imitation Stag handles on this project

I am starting with 1/8" x 1" O1 tool steel that has been surface ground to .110" for the spring and .107" for the blade. Is this enough difference between the spring and blade thickness to allow for a smooth movement? I have access to a surface grinder at work and can adjust the dimensions, if someone does not believe this will work.

I plan to flat grind the blade, how thick should I leave the edge prior to heat treat?

On the heat treating what should I have the blade heat treated to?

How should I have the spring heat treated? The complete spring? Or only just past the pivot hole?

Does anyone have any recommendations on where to send the blade and spring to for heat treating and any kind of ballpark figure on how much heat treating would cost?

If anyone has any other suggestions than the questions I posted, please chime in.

I sure I'll have other questions as I go, Thanks in advance for your help.

Jim

Below is the pic of one of the knives I've customized.

 
Jim,
I'll see if I can help.
I grind my blade and springs the same thickness.
I don't grind any of my bevels until after heat treat. I also leave the belly of my springs full until after heat treat,this helps prevent warping.
I heat treat my folder blades to 59-60Rc.
Treat the spring somewhere between 45-50 Rc,the whole spring.
I do all my own heat treating so I can't help you with where to get this done.
You have left about a million questions unasked,ask them here or contact me,I'll try to help. The best way to learn how to make these knives is to make some.
I like the idea of you making a locking slipjoint,one of my favorite slipjoint knives I've ever owned is a Schrade locking slipjoint that I wore out about 35 years ago.
Good luck!

Calvin
 
Thanks for the reply Calvin, I've been trying to follow Chris Crawford's tutorial, which was were I seen reference to partial heat treating of springs and different thickness of blade and spring. Thanks for the advise on heating treating. I've sent you a PM
 
Per Calvin's advise, I've been practicing on some cheap Home Depot steel before using my 01 stock. Here are few pic's of my progress to date. I'm still not satisfied with the results, but feel I'm making progress.

The first blade from the left is a blank I made to use as a pattern, it also is my first attempt at cutting a nail nick.

The second blade is my first attempt at grinding bevels, it is a hollow grind.

The third blade is the Camillus TL-29 blade, that I'm copying.

The fourth blade is the flat ground blade I did today. On Friday I received the other 2" wheel from Boss Dog that I needed for my flat
platen and worked on setting up my flat platen yesterday.

The first spring is a blank I made to use as a pattern.

The second spring is the Camillus spring from the TL-29 I'm copying.








 
What you've done looks very good for your first practice blades,keep it up until your ready to grind some of your 0-1.
 
I finally finished my first slipjoint :happy:. I started on this project a little over 6 months ago with several stops and starts due to work and life. It's been a rewarding experience with a lot of bumps in the road. It has several flaws, but I learned a lot and look forward to starting on my next one.

I want to thank Calvin Robinson for his help and advise on this knife.

The blade and spring are 01.
The bolsters and pins are nickel silver.
The liners and locking liner are brass.
The scales are walnut Dymond Wood.

Let me know what you think.

Jim













 
Looking good! If you come to the Blade Show this year bring it by my table so I can look at it!
Congratulations!
 
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