Storebought epoxy for glueing liners to liners
- Thread starter AndyBillipp
- Start date
I have used the system three marine epoxy for years and have never had a problem 15 + years.
I use Quick Poly on hidden tang knives it is absolutely fantastic stuff. Thin as alcohol and will never let go.
It cures in about 10 minutes and heat or acetone will not effect it. It is used on horses hooves for repair
you get it from a farrier supply.
I use Quick Poly on hidden tang knives it is absolutely fantastic stuff. Thin as alcohol and will never let go.
It cures in about 10 minutes and heat or acetone will not effect it. It is used on horses hooves for repair
you get it from a farrier supply.
AndyBillipp
New Member
I tried some experiments with JB Weld, and glued up a stack containing wood, 4 pieces of liner, and another piece of wood. After it was all dry I put in a vice and hammered on it til something gave. After some pounding it was a liner to liner bond that failed, coming off the one liner perfectly clean, leaving all the JB on the other. The liners were roughed up and wiped down with acetone prior to glue up.
JB has always worked great for wood to metal, it doesn't seem to do plastic to plastic quite as well, at least in this case.
JB has always worked great for wood to metal, it doesn't seem to do plastic to plastic quite as well, at least in this case.
I have to ask, because I'm not well-versed on the chemical end of things.
The bond failed between the liners, which were plastic.
Do you think the failure could possibly be attributed to the prep (cleaning with acetone).
Or the chemicals in the JB?
The reason I ask is because certain solvents do funny things to certain plastics. This is how plastic welding is done, sort of a "melting", or rather dissolving, process.
I don't know what's compatible with what, but it's a thought. I don't work with enough plastic, etc. to know what the problem is.
B
Bush Monkey
Guest
The "chemical end of things" is that chemical bonds deteriorate and break down over time. Add to that the differential expansion and contraction rates of different materials and you have a failure in slow motion.
In my testing some time ago in the glue wars thread, surface preparation made a much bigger difference to success in bonding than the type of adhesive used. Soap and acetone both left films on the metal that adversely affected the bond. Sand blasting is the best method to surface prep we found. Sand blasting test coupons is the preferred surface preparation used by manufactures in testing adhesives for a reason. It gives the adhesive the best surface to acquire a good purchase.
After all that, there is a HUGE difference in epoxy performance and it is worth doing some testing of your own. Just because one maker has used a certain type of epoxy successfully for years doesn't mean you combination of materials and preparation method will work as well. The reverse can be said, just because some one reports a failure of some kind of material or process doesn't mean it won't work really well for you. Test,test, test. Absolutely get more than one opinion.
After all that, there is a HUGE difference in epoxy performance and it is worth doing some testing of your own. Just because one maker has used a certain type of epoxy successfully for years doesn't mean you combination of materials and preparation method will work as well. The reverse can be said, just because some one reports a failure of some kind of material or process doesn't mean it won't work really well for you. Test,test, test. Absolutely get more than one opinion.
rhinoknives
Well-Known Member
Sand Blasting will give more that double the surface area for the adhesive to bond with, in the same amount of space. Only stands to reason how that would help. I have dimpled the inside of scales, in the center area and put holes in the liners also.
Always more to learn and improve on!
Laurence
www.rhinoknives.com
Always more to learn and improve on!
Laurence
www.rhinoknives.com