Stupid ADD!!!

I guess I'm a slacker. I clamp my scales into the vise and use the pre-drilled tang as my drill template. Drill first hole, insert pin, drill second hole. After drilling I use a Sharpie to outline the tang. I then roughly cut the scales out but I only finish the front edge (ricasso area). When I glue my scales on the only edge finished is the ricasso. I do all shaping after glue up is complete.

I guess I'd do it the way you guys do if I could figure out how to keep the scales and liners in place while I do all the contouring on the grinder.
 
I glue one scale, drill, and then do the other. It's really helped me with keeping the scales perfectly lined up when it's time for the pins to go in. If I put accents just behind the bolsters I'll glue those before the scales. Mainly to be sure that one side is lined up with the other side.
 
A couple questions for those of you gluing one scale on first with no holes then drilling holes, then gluing on the other scale and flipping it and drilling the other holes:

First, a preference question: why in the world would you want to mess with epoxy twice AND spend extra time waiting for it to cure so you can fasten the other one?

Second, a more important technical question: how are you ensuring that the fronts of your scales are perfectly lined up and shaped/matched the same at the ricasso? And assuming you get them lined up perfectly, how are you guaranteeing they stay that way as the epoxy cures?
 
Skipping to post heat treating steps, my process would look like this:

Clean up tang and ricasso area(flatten/straighten if necessary)
Clean out pin holes in tang from heat treat
Finish tang edges
Prepare/flatten scales
Drill pin holes in scales
Pencil mark tang on back of scales
Rough profile/sand scales to pencil mark
Pin scales together and shape/finish fronts symmetrically
Finish grind/hand sand blade
Wrap blade
Glue/pin scales on
Flush profile of scales to tang
Contour/shape/finish scales
 
It shows that way.

I was saying I get my handle scales fit with holes drilled and rough shaping done even before I worry about finishing the blade.

I don't like like the looming sense of 'finality' that gluing scales on forces any sooner than necessary.

I also don't like handling and taping/wrapping a finished blade any longer/more than necessary.

The more I can get done prior to finishing and covering the blade, the better.
Sorry John I must have Ben typing when you did your post.

I have to agree with the taking and walking on egg shells with a finished blade.
John - with your method - are the blade edges almost to finish state (spine, tang top and bottom.
BTW - I have not had any issues with pin holes not working out. But i’m sure as said it
, it will happen.
 
I guess I'm a slacker. I clamp my scales into the vise and use the pre-drilled tang as my drill template. Drill first hole, insert pin, drill second hole. After drilling I use a Sharpie to outline the tang. I then roughly cut the scales out but I only finish the front edge (ricasso area). When I glue my scales on the only edge finished is the ricasso. I do all shaping after glue up is complete.

I guess I'd do it the way you guys do if I could figure out how to keep the scales and liners in place while I do all the contouring on the grinder.

This is exactly how I do mine.

I'd finish the scales first if I could figure out how to get them finished like I want without permanently attaching them first.

I'm not sure how I would get this type of thing lined up.

D078D748-AC7B-49E7-8741-4C63A88655CD.jpeg
 
First question: For me, this is how I get my best results waiting on the epoxy is no trouble because I always have something going on.
Second Question: The second scale staying put can be a problem if you do not take your time and put the clamps on carefully. I have never had one move on me though.
I figured we would get some good conversation going on processes...
 
I cannot take credit for the idea I got it reading The Complete Bladesmith years ago and I have done it that way since. I can promise you though if you do it that way you will never have a problem with the holes not aligning when you affix your pins. Because the tang is your drilling guide it is always perfect.

The reason I started doing it the way John Wilson described is due to inherent inaccuracies in drill presses, chucks, and drill bits. I found by getting my table squared up as best it would, I could make the cleanest holes by using the blade as a template and drilling each hole in a single pass and pinning to eliminate movement. Any time I've tried to use any thing other than the blade itself I've gotten "wollered out" holes in the first scale.
 
The reason I started doing it the way John Wilson described is due to inherent inaccuracies in drill presses, chucks, and drill bits. I found by getting my table squared up as best it would, I could make the cleanest holes by using the blade as a template and drilling each hole in a single pass and pinning to eliminate movement. Any time I've tried to use any thing other than the blade itself I've gotten "wollered out" holes in the first scale.
Whatever works for you. Its basically the same thing I just use the epoxy to keep my scale still, you use a vise.
 
I've had a few times when stacked the scales and used the blade holes as a drilling guide and then put the scales on either side of the blade that they didn't line up right. Double checked my drill press for squareness both directions and it seemed OK. So, don't know why they are off but have switched to doing one side and then the other as well. Problem then is making sure not to widen the first scale's holes (Wollered he said?) when using them as a guide. I might have some wobble in my drill press spindle or something...?
 
and I thought I was the only one staring into space wondering what was I looking for or going to get. that is the biggest frustration for me many times almost every day...good to know I'm in good company.

when I opened this thread i thought "stupid add" mean stupid advertisement.... see what I mean.

All about learning to cope I guess. Good idea for a list, Chris.
 
I also don't like handling and taping/wrapping a finished blade any longer/more than necessary.
Have you ever taped a finished and etched blade only to have the tape mess the blade up? I have had this happen more than once. I remember when I played football and we would have our ankles taped up for a game they would start with a pre-wrap that was like a thin foam material on a roll. This would keep the tape from ripping our skin off after the game. I wonder if pre-wrap would work to keep the tape from marking my blades.
 
I guess I'm a slacker. I clamp my scales into the vise and use the pre-drilled tang as my drill template. Drill first hole, insert pin, drill second hole. After drilling I use a Sharpie to outline the tang. I then roughly cut the scales out but I only finish the front edge (ricasso area). When I glue my scales on the only edge finished is the ricasso. I do all shaping after glue up is complete.

I guess I'd do it the way you guys do if I could figure out how to keep the scales and liners in place while I do all the contouring on the grinder.
Lol... I think this is how everyone does it. So stop trying to act like you invented this amazing thing. This guy told me it was a “Wilson Drop Point Hunter” when I first started. Kinda sad, John, kinda sad.

Now, if I may, I’d like to weigh in on this topic. And again, I would like to refer to John’s post; this time, however, I’d like us to consider John’s last paragraph.

I can't speak for John; so think of the following as my interpretation of his closing statements. I would also like to remind everyone of our recent commitment to honest, well-intended criticism. So here goes.

Even though he steals ideas and claims them as his own, like the scale pinning thing, he does have a truly unique, one-of-a-kind, signature of the one and only John Wilson. It’s all in his last paragraph. It’s beautiful. I’ll say brilliant. I’m stretching as far as I possibly can to say that it can be improved, critiqued, or more eloquently stated, but I simply must clarify his assumed jest. I think he meant - You have to do it this way, or it will never, ever come out right. It may come out close, but if you are truly trying to make a quality handmade knife, with symmetry in the contours- ya know, something worthy of your name, then bite the bullet, and properly attach the scales.

We all desire to make different types of knives. Some like the fancy stuff, some are neo-tribal, and so on. These guys can make anything, and that’s exactly my point. I read a post a while back where someone was asking about when should/does one consider themselves a knife maker. I thought about it for a while. Superficially the question is maybe silly, but I kinda have a habit of dwelling on things and meticulously picking apart an idea - well I say habit, but it’s more like my day job lol. So how do we measure a knife maker? Well, I think I may have found the answer to this very complex question. What John meant, and what the heck, I’ll speak for him, and the other John too lol may be expressed in one simple mathematical equation... The key that links my post, to the when am I a knife maker post, to JW to JD to all of our passions and desires lies in finding its solution. You have the rest of your life to finish this examination. Your time starts now.

1) LHS=RHS


Oh, and not to hijack a thread here, but are the JW-90’s really as good as what everyone is saying.
 
Lol... I think this is how everyone does it. So stop trying to act like you invented this amazing thing. This guy told me it was a “Wilson Drop Point Hunter” when I first started. Kinda sad, John, kinda sad.

Now, if I may, I’d like to weigh in on this topic. And again, I would like to refer to John’s post; this time, however, I’d like us to consider John’s last paragraph.

I can't speak for John; so think of the following as my interpretation of his closing statements. I would also like to remind everyone of our recent commitment to honest, well-intended criticism. So here goes.

Even though he steals ideas and claims them as his own, like the scale pinning thing, he does have a truly unique, one-of-a-kind, signature of the one and only John Wilson. It’s all in his last paragraph. It’s beautiful. I’ll say brilliant. I’m stretching as far as I possibly can to say that it can be improved, critiqued, or more eloquently stated, but I simply must clarify his assumed jest. I think he meant - You have to do it this way, or it will never, ever come out right. It may come out close, but if you are truly trying to make a quality handmade knife, with symmetry in the contours- ya know, something worthy of your name, then bite the bullet, and properly attach the scales.

We all desire to make different types of knives. Some like the fancy stuff, some are neo-tribal, and so on. These guys can make anything, and that’s exactly my point. I read a post a while back where someone was asking about when should/does one consider themselves a knife maker. I thought about it for a while. Superficially the question is maybe silly, but I kinda have a habit of dwelling on things and meticulously picking apart an idea - well I say habit, but it’s more like my day job lol. So how do we measure a knife maker? Well, I think I may have found the answer to this very complex question. What John meant, and what the heck, I’ll speak for him, and the other John too lol may be expressed in one simple mathematical equation... The key that links my post, to the when am I a knife maker post, to JW to JD to all of our passions and desires lies in finding its solution. You have the rest of your life to finish this examination. Your time starts now.

1) LHS=RHS


Oh, and not to hijack a thread here, but are the JW-90’s really as good as what everyone is saying.
I’ve got to contemplate this deep philosophical posting.
 
Th
We all desire to make different types of knives. Some like the fancy stuff, some are neo-tribal, and so on. These guys can make anything, and that’s exactly my point. I read a post a while back where someone was asking about when should/does one consider themselves a knife maker. I thought about it for a while. Superficially the question is maybe silly, but I kinda have a habit of dwelling on things and meticulously picking apart an idea - well I say habit, but it’s more like my day job lol. So how do we measure a knife maker? Well, I think I may have found the answer to this very complex question. What John meant, and what the heck, I’ll speak for him, and the other John too lol may be expressed in one simple mathematical equation... The key that links my post, to the when am I a knife maker post, to JW to JD to all of our passions and desires lies in finding its solution. You have the rest of your life to finish this examination. Your time starts now.

1) LHS=RHS
A knife is " an instrument composed of a blade fixed in a handle used for cutting".The first time a person takes a piece of material that will not cut and turns it into an instrument with a handle that will cut he or she is a knife maker. Steven Sauvestre was one of the 3 main architects on the Eiffel Tower. He built no towers before or after the Eiffel Tower. So...... If this guy can build 1/3 of a tower in his entire life and be called one of the greatest "Tower Builders" of all times, I am almost a knife maker no matter what my wife says!
 
Lol... I think this is how everyone does it. So stop trying to act like you invented this amazing thing. This guy told me it was a “Wilson Drop Point Hunter” when I first started. Kinda sad, John, kinda sad.

Now, if I may, I’d like to weigh in on this topic. And again, I would like to refer to John’s post; this time, however, I’d like us to consider John’s last paragraph.

I can't speak for John; so think of the following as my interpretation of his closing statements. I would also like to remind everyone of our recent commitment to honest, well-intended criticism. So here goes.

Even though he steals ideas and claims them as his own, like the scale pinning thing, he does have a truly unique, one-of-a-kind, signature of the one and only John Wilson. It’s all in his last paragraph. It’s beautiful. I’ll say brilliant. I’m stretching as far as I possibly can to say that it can be improved, critiqued, or more eloquently stated, but I simply must clarify his assumed jest. I think he meant - You have to do it this way, or it will never, ever come out right. It may come out close, but if you are truly trying to make a quality handmade knife, with symmetry in the contours- ya know, something worthy of your name, then bite the bullet, and properly attach the scales.

We all desire to make different types of knives. Some like the fancy stuff, some are neo-tribal, and so on. These guys can make anything, and that’s exactly my point. I read a post a while back where someone was asking about when should/does one consider themselves a knife maker. I thought about it for a while. Superficially the question is maybe silly, but I kinda have a habit of dwelling on things and meticulously picking apart an idea - well I say habit, but it’s more like my day job lol. So how do we measure a knife maker? Well, I think I may have found the answer to this very complex question. What John meant, and what the heck, I’ll speak for him, and the other John too lol may be expressed in one simple mathematical equation... The key that links my post, to the when am I a knife maker post, to JW to JD to all of our passions and desires lies in finding its solution. You have the rest of your life to finish this examination. Your time starts now.

1) LHS=RHS


Oh, and not to hijack a thread here, but are the JW-90’s really as good as what everyone is saying.
I did not think teachers were allowed to smoke weed!!!
 
Back
Top