Rex, from what you wrote it sounds like your not forge welding hot enough. Billets will weld around 2100 but I've found that welding at a lower temperature makes for weak welds, so I shoot for 2300-2350. When you pull the billet out of the forge it should be producing a lot of fumes from the boiling borax (I wear a respirator while forging since the fumes bother my lungs and contain nasty oxides).
If you don't understand any of that let me know, I'm not the best at describing things.
Thanks Dan,
You explained that perfectly! I was thinking about the size of the billet to the size of the original steel last night, it amazed me that it had gotten so much wider so quickly, without trying to draw out the width.
Please do keep in mind this is my first attempt at Damascus, I have been studying this stuff seriously since last Christmas, my WONDERFUL WIFE bought me Jim Rhisolous<sp> book,
"The Pattern Welded Blade" , she didn't have a clue what to buy me and is really big on surprises, so instead of consulting me she just took a shot at it, she's a really good shot, too!
1st, what type of Pyrometer do you use? when I have pulled this billet out it is glowing red, with wispy looking flame coming off it. I wired my shop so I could turn the lights off on my forging side, so I would be able to have it a little darker over there. I'm not very good at judgeing heat by color, I've looked at buying the Pyrometer that Ed C. uses, but it looked too difficult to assemble. I did sort of build one from a voltage meter that has a Temp setting and a Type K thermalcouple, it seemed to work OK, but I had no way of knowing if it was accurate. I think for me to be satisfied I need one that is dummy proof. But not 300 bucks either, I know it's hard to find. The one I built just quit working, it shows the temp for a few a minute or 2 and then, either the temp quits climbing, or it shuts off. It's a harbor freight job, so it's not the best, I figured since it will be so close to the forge I didn't need an expensive one to melt!
On my welder, it too is a HF model, but it is a 240 volt, (which is really a 220V), it is strong enough to melt steel if it isn't set correctly, don't ask how I know that! I have welded a lot of 1/4 and some bigger that has held up for about a year now. Will it work or do I need an Arc welder? Or something else?
I really like the idea of making the middle section of the billet an inch longer on each end, too bad I can't do it on this one, I will have to check and see how wide it is, last night all we had time to do was clean it up. That took over 2 hours, I was trying to be careful to not grind away too much, while stilll getting it nice and shiney. I know a lot of people make Damascus with several different types of steel , I've seen some use 3 to four different types of steel. I'm thinking that's probably too advanced for a beginner, I think the problems would come during HT. The reason I bring that up I have some 1095 that is <I think> 1 5/8" wide, BUT it's 3/8"thick, some of the 1095 from Aldo. Would that be possible to HT, I'm thinking it woul dhave to be Ht'd like 1095, which is a bit higher than I HT 1084, but I'm thinking, for some reason, the HT temps are within the suggested range. I HT my 1084 at 1500, I think ( I haven't HT'd 1095 in a while) 1095 is 1550, I'm planning on the billet being 1/4" thick if that matters.
Another question, do you use Anhydrous Borax, or the regular old 20 Mule Team laundry detergent? Jim's book strongly suggests using Anhydrous, I've read so many maker that say it's not necessary, but if you mak eit yourself it's not very expensive...unless you leave it in your NEW kiln with too thin of a pot...when hot it is very caustic!!!! Really wasn't all that expensive, I fixed it with some Bubble Alumina that I had left over form my forge build. But it did freak me out. Dumb mistakes plague me sometimes!!
I will say that fo rthe most part the billet welded up pretty good, I think your right about my temps, since I don't know ho whot it actually was when I took it out. I won't say it was fuming everytime it came out of the forge. I'm thinking I may grind the sides down to 1 1/2" so I can add a stick to the middle for a handle, I know it's a huge waste, but how cool would it be if I got a good usable billet of Damascus on my first attempt!
"For welding handles on its a good idea to lift one corner of the bar 1/8" off the piece being welded and tack it in place." Now this quote here I didn't really understand, do you mean keep the bar 1/8" away and tack it in, then fill the void with weld? If my welder is strong enough to use for this, I'm pretty sure I can do it, I'm pretty sure the reason it came off is because I didn't weld it good enough, I was worried about putting foreign material into the billet, I didn't think about having to trim the ends anyway. Since the ends will be gone anyway, it's not an issue.
Just do remember, what I know about making Damascus isn't real knowledge, it's from reading and studying books, the internet and anywhere else I could learn how to do it. It is NOW with your help and other KD members that I am really LEARNING this skill, I have to say I am loving it. I haven't had the chance to really open up my new Tire Hammer, and let it really bang on some steel, before Sunday, I had used it to draw out a few blades, and put in the bevels, I'm still using my hammer and anvil to do most of the shaping. My Tire Hammer is really pretty awesome, I'm sure it won't match up toe to toe with a Little Giant, I don't know maybe a 25lb'er, because the hammer on mine is 50, it might so OK against one. I know it is a neat machine, AND I only had to go to the next county to ge it, AND it didn't cost me an arm and a leg...just an arm! Thanks fo revery thing, Rex
