Freds Edge
Well-Known Member
Does anyone know if when anodizing Ti do you add to the dimension of the material ? I am building a folder that had an early lockup after anodizing the TI I lost the lockup.
Titanium Question
- Thread starter Freds Edge
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EdCaffreyMS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
No, it will not add any to dimensions.
Brett Schaller
Well-Known Member
I assume it's it a linerlock or framelock? If your backspacer(s) are held in with screws only (no locator pins) the knife will go together a little differently each time. Try loosening the spacer screws, tweaking the alignment slightly, then tightening the screws again.
EdCaffreyMS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
Great input Brett!! I never even considered that.
To add something..... things like that ALWAYS happen if you use imported hardware (screws, pivots, etc), and it the reason I always push TiConnector.com..... higher tolerances. Even then, hardened "locator pins" are a requirement in my book....mainly because if it has screws, and/or can be taken apart, the first thing a customer does.....is just that....takes it apart.
They can usually make it work IF there a locator pins in the build....if not, they will be calling, saying that they can't get the folder to "work". Skewing a bit on knives that can be disassembled, that is the reason Ed doesn't build "take down" straight knives anymore.... it would blow your mind to see the really dumb things people have done to "take down" knives I've produced, then call me wanting it repaired for free. Things like using vise grips on blued hardware, twisting off/breaking/cross threading tang threads....and on and on.
To add something..... things like that ALWAYS happen if you use imported hardware (screws, pivots, etc), and it the reason I always push TiConnector.com..... higher tolerances. Even then, hardened "locator pins" are a requirement in my book....mainly because if it has screws, and/or can be taken apart, the first thing a customer does.....is just that....takes it apart.
They can usually make it work IF there a locator pins in the build....if not, they will be calling, saying that they can't get the folder to "work". Skewing a bit on knives that can be disassembled, that is the reason Ed doesn't build "take down" straight knives anymore.... it would blow your mind to see the really dumb things people have done to "take down" knives I've produced, then call me wanting it repaired for free. Things like using vise grips on blued hardware, twisting off/breaking/cross threading tang threads....and on and on.
Ed,
I’m making a frame lock at the moment and was considering just that with respect to locator pins. Do they remain in the knife at completion just by friction fit? How many are required - I have my pivot and stop pins reamed and thought single locator pin at the rear would suffice? I also though maybe a lanyard tube could also act as a locator pin?
Thanks
Ian
Brett Schaller
Well-Known Member
I'm not Ed, but . . . 
On a frame lock, I use two spacers in the back that screws pass through with a locator pin between them. The locator pin is in the middle position, where the third screw was when I used three screws, before I found the advantage of a locator pin.
Both my locator pin and my stop pin are press fit into the reverse liner. They won't come out even if the knife is disassembled. The holes in the obverse liner are reamed a couple of thousandths larger, for a pass-through fit.
On a frame lock, I use two spacers in the back that screws pass through with a locator pin between them. The locator pin is in the middle position, where the third screw was when I used three screws, before I found the advantage of a locator pin.
Both my locator pin and my stop pin are press fit into the reverse liner. They won't come out even if the knife is disassembled. The holes in the obverse liner are reamed a couple of thousandths larger, for a pass-through fit.
EdCaffreyMS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
As long as you have TWO "anchor points" that are never changing, you got it licked. Brett just taught me something..... I never considered the stop pin as one of those "anchor points"...... I have always used two hardened 1/16" dowel pins in the same region Brett spoke of..... I'm gona have to experiment some now.....gosh I love this knifemaking game.....ALWAYS something new to learn! (Thanks Brett!)
Brett Schaller
Well-Known Member
My pleasure, Ed! Believe me, you've taught me a lot over the years.
Freds Edge
Well-Known Member
Ed , I had not given thought to a third locator pin but I am adding one now , only makes sense .
Thanks Brett!I'm not Ed, but . . .
On a frame lock, I use two spacers in the back that screws pass through with a locator pin between them. The locator pin is in the middle position, where the third screw was when I used three screws, before I found the advantage of a locator pin.
Both my locator pin and my stop pin are press fit into the reverse liner. They won't come out even if the knife is disassembled. The holes in the obverse liner are reamed a couple of thousandths larger, for a pass-through fit.
so when do you install your locator pin as I asssume once it is press fit in you cannot remove it multiple times? You would need to have completed finish of inside liner. Also what size are you using? Looking at drill sizes it seems to me a #47 hole (.0785) and use a 2mm pin (.0787) would work?
EdCaffreyMS
"The Montana Bladesmith"
I'm not Brett but....
Personally, I use 1/16" "harden dowel pins" that are .001 oversized, with a 1/16" drill. These "anchor pins" are the first holes drilled/used, and all other holes are drilled with these pins in place, first through both liners without the backspacer. Once those holes are completed, I then drill the screw holes in the liners/backspacer. I take the hardened "anchor pins" in and out all the way through building the folder.... I've never found a way to avoid doing so....because every time I tried, the end product did not fit together properly/work correctly. I just keep a 1/16" drift/punch handy, and carefully tap the pins out as required throughout the build process. It pays to have a smaller "soft" hammer and a large block of steel with small, shallow holes in the face so tap/catch the pins when you drift them out...... you can use a small brass hammer, but I made myself a small hammer out of 3/4" round mild steel, and as the hardened pins "chew up" the hammer face, I just grind it down as needed.
Personally, I use 1/16" "harden dowel pins" that are .001 oversized, with a 1/16" drill. These "anchor pins" are the first holes drilled/used, and all other holes are drilled with these pins in place, first through both liners without the backspacer. Once those holes are completed, I then drill the screw holes in the liners/backspacer. I take the hardened "anchor pins" in and out all the way through building the folder.... I've never found a way to avoid doing so....because every time I tried, the end product did not fit together properly/work correctly. I just keep a 1/16" drift/punch handy, and carefully tap the pins out as required throughout the build process. It pays to have a smaller "soft" hammer and a large block of steel with small, shallow holes in the face so tap/catch the pins when you drift them out...... you can use a small brass hammer, but I made myself a small hammer out of 3/4" round mild steel, and as the hardened pins "chew up" the hammer face, I just grind it down as needed.
Brett Schaller
Well-Known Member
I drill the pivot hole in both rough-shaped liners first. The pivot is a "pass through" fit in both liners. Then I put the liners together with the pivot in place and drill a pilot sized hole through both liners at the same time for the stop pin. Then I run a press-fit sized reamer through both liners for the stop pin. Then I take them apart and run a pass-through size reamer through the obverse liner only. Then I set the stop pin in place in the reverse liner.
I put the liners back together (this time with the stop pin in place) and repeat the entire process for the rear locator pin. My stop pins are either 1/8", 5/32", or 3/16" depending on the size of the knife. My rear locator pins are usually 3/16" - that's larger than necessary, but I happen to have a bunch of 3/16" pins long enough to work, so why waste them?
After that, I shape both liners to final shape with them put together.
I don't usually find it necessary to remove the pins once I set them unless the liners are to be anodized. In that case, I punch them out with a brass punch and reset them afterward.
I put the liners back together (this time with the stop pin in place) and repeat the entire process for the rear locator pin. My stop pins are either 1/8", 5/32", or 3/16" depending on the size of the knife. My rear locator pins are usually 3/16" - that's larger than necessary, but I happen to have a bunch of 3/16" pins long enough to work, so why waste them?
After that, I shape both liners to final shape with them put together.
I don't usually find it necessary to remove the pins once I set them unless the liners are to be anodized. In that case, I punch them out with a brass punch and reset them afterward.