W2
- Thread starter Walt2
- Start date
McClellan Made Blades
Well-Known Member
Walt,
Mind me asking what you Ht'd it at time and temp before you quenched,
your quenching medium and time and temp, for tempering?
Ive hand sanded W-2 all the way to 1500 without a problem, to bring out the Hamon.
I dont recall it being all that bad, but the recollevtion aint that good either!
Oh! And do you have a sanding block or some sort of way go hold your paper?
Rex
Mind me asking what you Ht'd it at time and temp before you quenched,
your quenching medium and time and temp, for tempering?
Ive hand sanded W-2 all the way to 1500 without a problem, to bring out the Hamon.
I dont recall it being all that bad, but the recollevtion aint that good either!
Oh! And do you have a sanding block or some sort of way go hold your paper?
Rex
McClellan Made Blades
Well-Known Member
I'm kinda perplexed as to why they would agree to HT it that hard, the possibility that it could break very easily
a possibility, I would suggest a couple of 1 hour tempers at 350 degrees, letting it cool to room temp. This
should bring your Rc down about 2-3 points, now if this blade is a kitchen knife, that may not be what you want
to do. It all depends on the purpose of the knife. If it is a hard use knife then DEFINITELY! Temper it, if its a chopper
or could be used as a chopper, you want to reduce hardness. Once you do that, it should be easier to finish, as
a rule, I try to get as much as possible done BEFORE I heat treat, that way, one it comes time to finish, its pretty much
already done. In the future do more research before you pay for HTing from someone as expensive as Bos hting,
they are,arguably, the best. And being so, cost a pretty good bit, unless you have a lot to send them,
Hope this helps, Rex
a possibility, I would suggest a couple of 1 hour tempers at 350 degrees, letting it cool to room temp. This
should bring your Rc down about 2-3 points, now if this blade is a kitchen knife, that may not be what you want
to do. It all depends on the purpose of the knife. If it is a hard use knife then DEFINITELY! Temper it, if its a chopper
or could be used as a chopper, you want to reduce hardness. Once you do that, it should be easier to finish, as
a rule, I try to get as much as possible done BEFORE I heat treat, that way, one it comes time to finish, its pretty much
already done. In the future do more research before you pay for HTing from someone as expensive as Bos hting,
they are,arguably, the best. And being so, cost a pretty good bit, unless you have a lot to send them,
Hope this helps, Rex
Warren Krywko
Well-Known Member
W2 is fine at Rc61+. You get Rc61 thempering at 450f. It's a pretty amazing steel.
It it takes a bit more elbow grease to finish than 1075/1084, but it's about the same as O1 or 52100 at the same hardness.
It it takes a bit more elbow grease to finish than 1075/1084, but it's about the same as O1 or 52100 at the same hardness.
Walt2
Well-Known Member
I have blades of 52100 at Rc62 and they are easier to hand finish than the W2 at 61-63.
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i have found very handy to use waterstones to reach to 8000 grit, then hand sand back to the desired satin finish and take care of the plunges. Mind i don't do hollow grinds.
The stones are definitely faster and more funny to use than sandpaper; they only require to be dressed every now and then, but that's quick.
The stones are definitely faster and more funny to use than sandpaper; they only require to be dressed every now and then, but that's quick.