I'm guessing your dad told you not to drag your file backwards? "Sawing" with a file won't cut any faster but can dull its teeth prematurely.
A
file card looks like a wire brush, more or less. The bristles are short and stiff, and clean little bits of steel out of your file's teeth so it cuts cleanly and the swarf caught between the teeth doesn't make big nasty scratches in your workpiece. Mine hangs on a nail on the edge of my bench, so I bump into it often and don't forget to use it.
Wiki has a pretty good
article on files and their use. See especially the part about draw-filing. Learn it, live it, love it.
What brand files are you using? DO NOT buy the cheapest ones you can find at Harbor Freight! They are made of junk steel which is case-hardened and will get dull very quickly.
I recommend
Nicholson and
Simonds brands. They are made of good-quality, high-carbon, fully-hardened steel and last a long, long time. They aren't "expensive" in my opinion... a good $15 USA-made file will
far outlast a handful of junk files, and cut better and cleaner from the get-go, for the same overall cost.
(There may be other good brands I'm not aware of. These two have worked very well for me.)
A properly-made file or rasp that eventually gets dull can be made into a very good knife, but that's a whole 'nother topic.
...i will have 250 saved by the end of the summer, but i was hoping to get steel too...
Forget the grinder for now! Sounds like you're willing to plan ahead and that's a good thing. At $250, you're getting tantalizingly close to the cost of a much better grinder (about halfway to a Grizzly 2x72). Buy steel and good files (and a file card, seriously, you NEED one) now, and get to work. You will make mistakes more slowly and remove steel almost as quick as you can on a cheap grinder.