What's going on in your shop?

Not something that happened in my shop, this one happened at work. Always wear your PPE folks.

Working with a cut off wheel at work and it kicked back into me. Should have been wearing gloves…

IMG_3548.jpeg

18 stitches, no tendon damage, but it will keep me out of the shop for awhile. Stay vigilant. We all need our hands for what we do. I got lucky on this one.
 
opaul said:
Love it! How did you get the texture on the flats. I’m guessing 6.5 -7” OAL?
Makers mark looks 3 dimensional over the Hamon.
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Thank you!

Just about 6-7/8" OAL.

Texture on flats are done with the electro-etch machine and a towel. The towel is used to make contact and that is the texture you get. Other fabrics will leave different patterns.
 
Delta Handmade Knives said:
Thank you!

Just about 6-7/8" OAL.

Texture on flats are done with the electro-etch machine and a towel. The towel is used to make contact and that is the texture you get. Other fabrics will leave different patterns.
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Very cool. That calls for some experimenting. Do you clip the lead you would normally clip to your etching pad to the towel? I assume it would be done prior to grinding bevels.
 
Heikki said:
Very cool. That calls for some experimenting. Do you clip the lead you would normally clip to your etching pad to the towel? I assume it would be done prior to grinding bevels.
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Prior to grinding bevels = Yes! For best results.

I use the personalizer plus to do this. You clip the red cable to the tang and use the black cable/pad with wet towel sitting on top of where you want the texture then make contact. Your machine should be on "etch" not "mark". 10 to 15 second touches at full power and its done. Takes a little practice to pin down the best results.

IMG_6214.jpeg
 
Delta Handmade Knives said:
Prior to grinding bevels = Yes! For best results.

I use the personalizer plus to do this. You clip the red cable to the tang and use the black cable/pad with wet towel sitting on top of where you want the texture then make contact. Your machine should be on "etch" not "mark". 10 to 15 second touches at full power and its done. Takes a little practice to pin down the best results.

View attachment 83531
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That is super cool! Thanks for sharing. Did you experiment or was it a brainstorm?
 
opaul said:
That is super cool! Thanks for sharing. Did you experiment or was it a brainstorm?
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This is not my idea. I saw this on YouTube. I tried it and had to play with it a bit before I was happy with it but its pretty straight forward. Just like etching your makers mark but replace the stencil with a piece of towel which is wet with warm, salty water. Not super soaked, but soaked enough to get the current through.
 
Taz575 said:
I am going to try that out! I use my electro etcher to etch jimping into the spine, never thought to use a towel for blade texture!
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I think a sponge may also make an interesting texture, any fabric that carries water and has an interesting texture should work. Mileage may vary. Good luck!
 
Delta Handmade Knives said:
This is not my idea. I saw this on YouTube. I tried it and had to play with it a bit before I was happy with it but its pretty straight forward. Just like etching your makers mark but replace the stencil with a piece of towel which is wet with warm, salty water. Not super soaked, but soaked enough to get the current through.
Click to expand...
I've been doing this for D2/non-corrosion resistant knives with regular electrolyte for a bit now, I didn't know other people were too! My thought was that it would speed up the patina process, pretty much like a mustard or ferro etch.long classic hunter1.jpg
 
My first attempt with a Hamon. This is with most of the carbon removed with 220 grit. So I don't know if what I'm seeing is a Hamon or just more carbon that needs to be removed. I'm also not all that certain about my heat treat. It seems OK. but I really don't have a way to measure it. Most, if not all, of my knives going forward I'm sending out for heat treat. But I don't know if outside heat treater's can deal with a Hamon?

Steel is 1075. OAL 9.5" Blade length 4.5"

https://imgur.com/b3cIWjY
 
Sean Jones said:
My first attempt with a Hamon. This is with most of the carbon removed with 220 grit. So I don't know if what I'm seeing is a Hamon or just more carbon that needs to be removed. I'm also not all that certain about my heat treat. It seems OK. but I really don't have a way to measure it. Most, if not all, of my knives going forward I'm sending out for heat treat. But I don't know if outside heat treater's can deal with a Hamon?

Steel is 1075. OAL 9.5" Blade length 4.5"

https://imgur.com/b3cIWjY
Click to expand...
A quick dip in acid will let you know if you got a hamon.
 
Sean Jones said:
My first attempt with a Hamon. This is with most of the carbon removed with 220 grit. So I don't know if what I'm seeing is a Hamon or just more carbon that needs to be removed. I'm also not all that certain about my heat treat. It seems OK. but I really don't have a way to measure it. Most, if not all, of my knives going forward I'm sending out for heat treat. But I don't know if outside heat treater's can deal with a Hamon?

Steel is 1075. OAL 9.5" Blade length 4.5"

https://imgur.com/b3cIWjY
Click to expand...

I spoke with Paul Farner (Bos Heat Treat/Buck Knives) and he will do a Hamon. You just have to send it to him with the Clay/Satanite on the blade in the pattern you want. I've been thinking about it when I send him my next batch. You'd have to wrap the blade very carefully I'd imagine?
 
chrisstaniar said:
I spoke with Paul Farner (Bos Heat Treat/Buck Knives) and he will do a Hamon. You just have to send it to him with the Clay/Satanite on the blade in the pattern you want. I've been thinking about it when I send him my next batch. You'd have to wrap the blade very carefully I'd imagine?
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Thanks for the information. That helps a lot.
 
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