Working with Koa

Sean Cochran

Sean Cochran

Well-Known Member
Ive got some Koa that Ive had for some time. I have never used it that I can remember. I know this stuff is very dense, but I was wondering can it be used without being stabalized? I realize all wood can be used without being stab. but does the Koa have shrinkage problems if not stabalized? (wish I could say the same about myself...:what!:)

If not stabalized what is the best finish to use on it?
thanks
Sean
 
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Koa stabilizes beautifully and unstabilized is similar to hard maple. Many respected makers use unstabilized Koa with an oil finish with very nice results. I'm not going to get into the discussion about whether stabilizing is worth it. :34:
 
I've used a lot of Koa, both stabilized and not. My personal taste is to use it non-stabilized, and put a Tru-Oil finish on it. It takes a few days to pile up the 10-12 coats of tru-oil (that's what I like to do). I think the Tru-Oil gives the wood more depth and beauty than using it stabilized.

You can easily burn/scorch Koa, especially the end grain, so use sharp belts and watch their speed.
 
Thanks guys. As a general rule I would rather use stab. wood over non stab. but I have some Koa with great figure and I dont have time to send it out for stabilization. I was thinking true oil should work, Ive used it on maple quite a bit with good results.

Sean
 
The primary problem you can have with non stabilized koa is checking.
That can be avoided / prevented by being careful when working it and make sure you give it a good finish.
Ed made a good point about burning. Make sure to use fresh sandpaper/belts and go slow removing material.
I think everyone agrees that an oil finish is best. Use an oil that both penetrates and builds up a surface (tru-oil, tung oil, danish oil)
After that past wax and hand buffing.
Non stabilized koa can have a fairly open grain like walnut.
 
Sean heres a couple with stabilized Koa from my kitchen. I like the idea that its stabilized when its around that much water.... L


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2.jpg
 
I also have used Koa Stabilized & Non.. For me it depends on the use of the knife.
Like Meridian Blades, When it Culinary or field I go with stabilized. Collector Or show knife the regular Koa works great just like it has for the past 1200 plus years.

The Ironic thing is the Hawaiians used Koa to make their long ocean going outrigger canoes.

I guess they just didn't have a Stabilizer there in the islands??:biggrin:
 
Yeah like Rhino has mentioned theres blades /boats that have been around for hundreds of yrs that have wooden handles / construction etc. Some don't make it through the winter.... I think the construction of the handle makes a big difference as well. Stick tangs where the wood surrounds the tang allows for more unnoticed movement. Scandis with curly birch and tar come to mind right away. When you start pinning thin pieces of wood to the side of steel slabs, knowing that it will move and absorb water and the grain will be raised, then I think its possible to get some checking, warpage, and I expect it. Obviously your mileage will vary and just cuz its stabiliized doesnt mean its not gonna move, or crack either..... Koa Walnut some Maples and lots of others are on the fence as far stabilzing goes IMO. Below is maple burl....

xyz.jpg


rhinoknives said:
I also have used Koa Stabilized & Non.. For me it depends on the use of the knife.
Like Meridian Blades, When it Culinary or field I go with stabilized. Collector Or show knife the regular Koa works great just like it has for the past 1200 plus years.

The Ironic thing is the Hawaiians used Koa to make their long ocean going outrigger canoes.

I guess they just didn't have a Stabilizer there in the islands??:biggrin:
Click to expand...
 
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